The chants of “Pit Senyor†(abbreviated from Sangpit Senyor) accompanying the Sinug, the dance ritual offered during the feast of the Child Jesus—Sr. Santo Niño – is now silenced because the Sinulog Festival, 2013 has been completed... in Cebu City. Elsewhere, Filipinos, especially Cebuanos in Dubai who had no chance to come home organized their own “Sinulog sa UAE Festival 2013†last Friday, January 18, at Al Safa Stadium. They also had dance competitions and a selection of beauty queens, with accompanying prices in Dirham (Dh).
The celebration of the Sinulog Festival has attracted more and more guests (foreigners, balikbayans, pilgrims, local tourists including “promdi†relatives) to Cebu City and it was an opportunity for residents here to demonstrate our own brand of hospitality. Anytime of the week during the festival is acceptable, but never host any event on Saturday and Sunday when the religious procession and parade are held, respectively. Five years ago, on a Saturday, your favourite food columnist hosted a dinner (7 PM) for relatives; the three kilometre route became a three hour journey (10 PM arrival!). Sunday is unthinkable unless both host and guest ride habal-habals or billeted within a walking distance.
It has become a tradition for Cebu City’s only 5-star hotel, Marco Polo Plaza (www.marcopoloplazacebu.com phone 253-1111) to launch Sugbosog during the Sinulog festival for celebrators who want to taste authentic Cebuano delicacies with guest Chef Ms. Jessica Avila, the foremost authority of Cebuano cuisine. Each year, an aspect of the cuisine is highlighted and for 2013, street food classics were served, excuse me, in a five-star setting.
As a general rule, street food fare in Cebuano means STK (Sugba Tinowa Kilaw) and for the Sugba portion, meats (chicken, pork) and the freshest sea foods like squids, shrimps and shells (sa-ang, tudlo dato) were available. Deep fry is a favourite cooking process and now we have street staples like tempura, squid balls and kwekkwek (deep-fry orange batter covered hard-boiled eggs). In the sidewalks of Cebu City, however, used cooking oil from fast food joints are recycled and it makes all the deep fried dishes smell like chicken.
I really do not understand how kwekkwek became Cebuano but if a group of people eat a particular dish over a period of time, then that dish becomes integrated into their cuisine because the cuisine of a people is constantly evolving. This view is shared by fellow food writer, Jigs Arquiza, who also suggested that Steamed Fried Rice should be included in the repertoire of Cebuano dishes.
Abre Gana (Appetizers) served during the food festival were the following: Ginabut aka Chicharon Bulaklak and Labtingaw nga Danggit. Labtingaw is a process of preserving fish that is seasoned only with sea water and sun dried for a limited time (max. four hours). Some versions use patis, kalamansi juice and ginger juice as seasoning, enhancing the taste of the dried fish.
Sopa (soup) were the Linat-ang Manok Bisaya (native chicken with Moringa oleifera or kamunggay) and my favourite that night, the Linarang nga Isda (Cebuano Hot and Sour Soup).
For the Sud-an (main Course), Traditional Cebuano Fiesta Classics were served like the Lechon de Cebu, Kaldereta (Goat Stew in Tomato Sauce), Humba (Braised Pork) and others but that night, Chef Jessica’s Balbacua was really exceptional. By the way, if you can digest Kan-on mais (Corn grits stir-fried in a little oil, usually with garlic) with ease, then you have the stomach of a genuine Cebuano. docmlhuillier@yahoo.com