I got a heart emoticon reply from Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi seconds after I tagged him on my Instagram stories about his video presentation for Tod’s Resort 2021, a part of the first-ever Milan Digital Fashion Week a couple of days ago. It was an instantaneous reaction all the way from Milan to Manila — a comforting idea of connection in a time of disconnect.
Many designers and artistic directors, who have been forced to stay indoors during the first few weeks of the global lockdown, have unconsciously looked inwards when creating a collection for their own respective brands. Without the external noise and the inspiration from the outside world, there was nowhere else to look but within. Reassessing, reevaluating and recalibrating have been a resounding theme amongst all.
“I asked myself immediately, ‘What’s my vision for the brand?’ because Tod’s has a very strong DNA,” says Chiapponi. “It’s part of my culture and life. I like it when clothing tells a story, a love story, one of memories, and in some way or another, every garment has to remind you of something that already existed. My perspective is somewhat nostalgic and very grounded.”
For his sophomore collection for the Italian house, the designer looked no further than inside the world of the many skilled artisans who create the impeccable products of the Tod’s label. His constant discussions and conversations with them have inspired him to create this collection and eventually became the stimulus for the Resort 2021 video presentation — a visual peek into what happens behind the doors of their creative process.
Aptly named “Inside Tod’s Studio,” the film was shot in Brancadoro, a small town in the Marche region of Italy where the company’s command center is located. The video shows Chiapponi as he walks through the Tod’s headquarters — a tour of its design studios, research departments and workshops, straight into the epicenter of the brand and its people. We are shown inside the spaces where the products are made, starting from the very first phases of their artistic procedure.
We get a glimpse of the mood boards, prototypes and designs, as we explore the finest hides, machinery, molds and colored yarns. We get to witness firsthand the artisans who are cutting, sewing and ensuring the excellent quality each Tod’s piece. The close-up details and stages of the workshop lead to the final scene of the video: a photo shoot of the lookbook for the finished collection.
A Gucci and Bottega Venetta alum, Chiapponi was influenced by the concept of a casual, lifestyle elegance — where luxury and sportswear meet — made with superb materials, techniques and color palettes. Denim, suede and leather in exquisite construction are front and center. Relaxed outerwear proposed in several iterations, billowing parkas in neutral shades, biker jackets crafted in butter-soft leather, all with modern and contemporary utilitarian detail that give it a youthful yet luxurious and palpable appeal.
“This is a story of this man, or this woman, and the bigger world they belong to. The concept took me straight to the ’70s — to jetsetters, the people with a strong desire to live, to go on holiday, to spend their free time with friends, family,” Chiapponi adds. It’s a familiar idea that we can relate to and certainly long for, like a tight hug, or close physical contact — and definitely more than a simple heart emoji Instagram reply.
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In the Philippines, Tod’s is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc., and is located at Greenbelt 4, Rustan’s Shangri-La, and Shangri-La Plaza. Follow @ssilifeph on Instagram for more information.