What’s new in Hong Kong? After reeling from the devastating blow of SARS on tourism and local trade, it seems that Hong Kong is back on track and it’s business as usual once again. The city is awash with new stores, restaurants, hotels and office buildings. One such commercial building is Chater House in Central. Developed by Hong Kong Land and designed by KPF, it is a 30-storey, 50,000 square meter office tower with a three-storey retail podium. I had a chance to wander around the retail spaces of Chater House for a few hours and discovered some fascinating new architecture.
Giorgio Armani has entrenched itself at Chater House in what they have called a multistore. Dominating the streetfront of the building is a massive stone wall, with the Armani logo on one end and the jeweler Bulgari on the other. Inside is a full roster of Armani brands including Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, EA Caffe, Armani Fiori, Armani Libri, GA Cosmetici and Armani Casa. The retail complex includes other shops such as Porsche Design and Valentino, but it is the Armani spaces that really shine.
Entering from the street, one walks into the Giorgio Armani flagship store, housing the brand’s finest and most expensive goods. The space is cavernous, with unbelievably high ceilings. The walls and floors are fully clad in Armani’s trademark St. Maximin stone, their hallmark of understated luxury. Dark tropical woods provide a rich contrast to the minimal interiors. I feel like I have walked into a temple rather than a store, a place that the store’s architect, Claudio Silvestrin, familiar with, having previously designed a monastery. A long, narrow stairway leads up to the podiumís first floor, which opens up to a host of other boutiques.
The first floor houses the Emporio Armani store, a study in layered glass and steel. Designed by Italian Massimiliano Fuksas, the store has a much more dynamic, more fluid feel to it. The store looks out onto Pedder Street via a massive window and is suffused with daylight. A glass staircase dominates the center of the store, connecting it to the second level of Emporio Armani above. Outside of the Emporio Armani store is Armani Fiori, a sliver of space in opaque glass and filled with impeccably cut flower arrangements, artfully displayed on a slate water table. A few steps away is Armani Casa, the company’s recently launched line of domestic products. While the quality of the furniture and accessories is impeccable, the limited range displayed by the diminutive store leaves one wanting for more.
Finally, there is the Armani Caffe on the second level, which is perhaps the most stimulating space within the complex. The main entrance is nothing short of spectacular. A tunnel clad in pink hued translucent glass panels leads into a large room dominated by a red fiberglass ribbon than zooms up, down and around the dining area, dividing it into different zones. The dining area is suffused in a pink glow, created by the backlit glass panels that line the walls of the space. The café is so fantastically futuristic that it’s almost odd to see businesspeople in dark suits nonchalantly enjoying their lunch. You’d half expect people in space suits to walk in at any moment. The café does serve a mean espresso and light and tasty Italian fare befitting Armani’s image conscious clientele.
What is perhaps most amazing about all this is that Giorgio Armani has managed to expand and build such stores while remaining independent of luxury conglomerates such as LVMH and the Gucci Group. The company has continually fended off offers from the big luxury groups and has remained privately held since its founding. As such, Mr. Armani has remained in complete control of his company’s future and has managed very well on his own. The Chater House multistore is the second massive development after the companyís landmark Via Manzoni headquarters was recently completed in Milan. Armani’s 2002 end of year revenues are up 21 percent to $1.3 billion to the previous year’s figures. While the fashion critics no longer sing praises for design innovation, it seems that the generalissimo is steering his ship in the right direction. What Armani needs now is an infusion of fresh talent to reinvigorate the brand and propel it into a new phase. When Armani is ready to pass the design baton, it will perhaps be an even greater force to reckon with.