Fashion-forward SPRING SUMMER 04

In Sketches and Essays, William Haskell slammed sartorial fascinations as "Fashion is the abortive issue of vain ostentation and exclusive egotism; it is haughty, trifling, affected, servile, despotic, mean and ambitious, precise and fantastical all in a breath – tied to no rule and bound to conform to every whim of the minute."

Although the industry is infamous for its pretense and hauteur, the recent occurrences around the world have humbled the spiky heels of fashion to the ground. Although fashion remains to be aspirational and subjectively decadent, it has begun to radiate a message rather than just being a stamp of vanity.

Thus was the message of the Metro Wear fashion show held at ABS-CBN last Thursday featuring the creations of the Fashion Design Council of the Philippines members sponsored by Metro Magazine. It was a brew of individuality, an interpretation of the zeitgeist, a froth of sensuality and a strong hit of attitude. It encouraged people to be aware of the times and strut with a more confident gait. Such was Jojie Lloren’s departure from his classically Edwardian lines and as a pleasingly jarring move looking at athletic gear as inspiration. The haute sport look has been a big thing since Puma glitzed up trainers as leisurewear must-haves, which have created a ruckus with progressive designers such as Proenza Schouler who dedicated their spring line with country club tennis gear. It implies a more easygoing and less ostentatious stride towards the future. Jojie’s take on sportswear blasted with cherry and raspberry flavors still retained the studied sensuality that he is known for such as naughty hems and arm straps that dangle down the shoulders. Dong Omaga Diaz presented athletica to the red carpet with his ingenious take on taking the stripes from the tracksuit and into the haughtiest of silhouettes. His amazing inculcation of sportswear elements such as medals translated into the language of old Hollywood glamour is inestimable.

The easy life, a time when tea time and naps really did exist, was also a part of the message that perhaps it’s time to remember the good times still exist but not in that boring way. Vic Barba’s Gatsby meets Gwen Stefani, frock ‘n’ roll numbers symbolized modern ease. His preppy foundation peppered with edgy details made a very interesting ironic statement of making something unpredictable out of the predictable. Anthony Nocon created a parody of some sort of the chic brat with his lineup of Upper East Side-style rebels. Something like a fashion forward student from St. Albans or Brown who perhaps listens to a lot of Chet Baker. Lulu Tan Gan’s witty collection of Parisian brat chic was both whimsical and innovative. Her bracing collection sort of reminded me how naughty Madeliene would have been after her tenure at the convent. Patrice Ramos-Diaz showcases her pasture of ideas as she takes the country girl out of the country. A virginal twist in being green-minded, she mixes sweet florals with greens creating a look that is sweet but not boring. Our kind of sweetheart!

Of course, glamour was not lost as several designers took it upon themselves to create visual essays of fresh allure. Randy Ortiz stunned with his east-meets-west electro-pleated pieces of fantasy, which were a priceless study of illusion through texture. Dennis Lustico presented the new coquette with his flirty pieces that defied gravity and proved that, indeed, brevity is the soul of wit. His lime runched tube dress with a golden streak running across the middle was a true example of his artistic nature that is corporal but disciplined. Frederick Peralta takes classic elegance to new heights with his glitz and glam gowns that skimmed the models’ bodies like glitter. Frederick, who is a master in draping, was definitely a cause for a lot of gaping! Gerry Katigbak shows us the Victorian bad girl in his boudoir or die collection. Pure sex kitten! Rajo Laurel chose to take a more surreal route towards glamour with his parade of Grecian goddesses with stencil-like clouds looming atop their shoulders. Like an homage to Madame Vionnet but spiced with the glamorous drollness of Schiaparelli.

For menswear I would definitely dress up my lucky would-be non-existent lover in PJ Aranador’s heartbreaking Lenny Kravitz-esque wares. In a challenging field like menswear, PJ was able to create an interesting silhouette for men. Nono Palmos of course did not diappoint with his classically sexy numbers to be worn like a Brett Easton Ellis or Jay Mc Inerney heartbreaker! Yum Yum!

It’s been a great year for fashion, with new borders crossed and challenging expectations met. A wonderfully capricious future for fashion awaits. However, with all of its inspirational elements the gist of style is individuality. As it has been shown in this year’s 2004 collection, it’s not about chasing the trend dragon or grabbing the most expensive dress. As Eric Hoffer says,"The fear of becoming a has-been keeps some people from becoming anything."
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