The Holy Land is one place in the world that is such a paradox. It is venerated as holy because it is God’s hometown. And yet it has been the site of the most unholy battles between men. On the deserts and mountains of Israel, Jesus Christ once walked to preach the gospel of love and redemption. And yet so much hatred mars its geography as people fight for freedom and sovereignty, and build walls between them. There is the Separation Wall, for instance — the Holy Land’s very own apartheid wall — that has separated the Palestinians from their loved ones. In the street markets of Jerusalem, I saw a T-shirt being peddled with “Guns N’ Crosses†painted on it instead of Guns N’ Roses.
It has been called “The Promised Land,†the one that God created for His Chosen People, and yet such people have been driven out of their own land and persecuted with such unspeakable cruelty. As early as 586 BCE, the Jewish diaspora began, and the Jews have sought refuge in the bosom of less hostile places. The verses from “Ezekiel†on the entrance to the Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum tell of a promise aching to be fulfilled: “I will put my spirit in you and you will live, and I will settle you in your own land.†Fragments of pain and stories that make your heart bleed are enshrined in this museum that mirrors the Jewish people’s greater Calvary.
Jesus Christ performed miracles in this land, and perhaps the most wondrous miracle is that despite all the wars that have scarred its history, Israel remains a beautiful land, where ancient wonders blend with modern structures of grandeur. And its people have risen from oppression to become the world’s most acclaimed minds in the field of art, science, culture and all things sublime.
The Holy Land is a place to seek your own epiphany, personal redemption and yes, perhaps a miracle. As I retraced the paths where Jesus Christ once led His disciples, I joined other souls weary of carrying their own heartaches and crosses. I like to think God was there all along the craggy roads, watching our pilgrimage.
1. View the Mount of Temptation and the Sycamore Tree. This is in Jericho, hailed as the oldest city in the world. It is near the Jordan River where John baptized Jesus Christ and which the Israelites crossed when they fled to Egypt. The Mount is where Jesus fasted for 40 days and nights and where He also turned stone into bread. (Trivia: Ever wondered why, in the Bible, there is a frequent use of “40 days†to refer to a period of time in the life of Jesus? The ancient Biblical word for “40†is said to actually mean “a long time.â€)
The Sycamore is the tree which a tax collector named Zacchaeus climbed to get a good view of Jesus as He passed by. It was also in this area where Jesus also restored a blind beggar’s eyesight.
2. Marvel at the awesome site of Qumran in the West Bank where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. Some 900 scrolls on parchment and papyrus were found in 11 caves in this area, revealing texts containing Jewish beliefs. The place is breathtaking with its plateaus, baths, and ancient cemeteries, all very camera-rific. (Note: This place is an archeologist’s delight. Remains from the Iron Age have been found here.)
3. Take a healing bath in the Dead Sea. You can say that this is one of the world’s first health resorts. You will naturally float and never fear of drowning here — yes, it is actually a lake, not a sea — and get effective treatment for diseases such as psoriasis, rhinosinusitis and osteoarthritis of the knees. Medical and cosmetic companies make use of the salt and minerals from the Dead Sea to create healing creams and beauty potions. (Trivia: The Dead Sea is 423 meters below sea level and is 8.6 times saltier than the ocean. It is called “dead†because no living creature can thrive here because of its high salt content.)
5. Say a prayer at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This site is venerated as Calvary Hill where Jesus was crucified and buried. It is also believed to be the site of the Resurrection. In the year 326, St. Helena — the mother of Emperor Constantine — is said to have discovered the True Cross and the tomb of Jesus. (Note: Since the 4th century, this has been the most important pilgrims’ destination for Christians. During the period of the Crusaders, no Crusader’s journey was complete without a visit to the Holy Sepulchre.)
6. Make a wish at the Wailing Wall. This wall is one of the last remaining portions of the Temple of Solomon. A fence separates men from women in the area. Why? Because the Orthodox Jews don’t believe it’s acceptable to pray right alongside women. Hmm, women may also wonder why the area for men is much bigger than that for women. Anyway, whatever your gender, you can write your wish on a piece of paper, and slip it into cracks in the wall which is actually made of a series of huge stones. (Note: The Wailing Wall is open 24 hours a day. Yes, the Jews believe that God never sleeps.)
7. Meditate in the Garden of Gethsemane. But first, visit the Mount of Olives for a panoramic view of the city of Jerusalem, then go to the Ascension Chapel from where Jesus ascended into heaven, His footprint even embedded on the spot. At the Garden of Gethsemane, you see 2,000-year-old olive trees where Jesus and His disciples prayed the day before His death. His agony was so deep, according to St. Luke, that “His sweat was like great drops of blood falling down to the ground.†(Trivia: At the Pater Noster Church, where Jesus taught His disciples how to pray the Our Father, you see versions of the Our Father in 62 different languages inscribed on wall plaques. That includes Tagalog and our local dialects like Kapampangan.)
8. Visit The Last Supper Room. Don’t expect to find a tableau like you see in Da Vinci’s “Last Supper†mural which is a fixture in many Filipino dining rooms. No wax figures here of Jesus and the 12 Apostles, sorry. Neither is there a long table with ancient cups. The room is empty, leaving the original scene to your imagination. From here, proceed to the Tomb of King David, the Dormition Abbey where the Vrgin Mary slept last, and St. Peter’s Church in Gallicantu where Peter denied Jesus thrice. (Note: Did you know that King David was a poet and musician? His verses are found in the “Book of Psalms.†On the other hand, the “Book of Proverbs†is attributed to his son Solomon.)
9. Kiss the site where Jesus was born in the Church of the Nativity. Built in 327 AD by Emperor Constantine and his mother St. Helena, the basilica was rebuilt after a fire in 565 AD by the Byzantine Empire. That is why you will see trapdoors on the floor revealing floor mosaics from the original basilica. Legend has it that the baptismal font in the basilica mark the well where The Three Kings got water for their horses — or were they camels? (Note: The Bible says that Jesus was born in a manger. What is untold is that He was probably born inside a cave.)
10. Shed tears at the Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum. This is the Jews’ own version of Calvary. Yes, the pictures, documents and artifacts of six million Jews murdered in Nazi-occupied countries made me cry. They were not just museum exhibits — they were personal stories, relics of pain, proof of inhumanity that could only be done by the vilest of the vile. Admission is free to this beautiful structure designed by Israeli-Canadian architect Moshe Safdie. (Note: Next to the Wailing Wall, this is the most visited site in Israel. Israel president Moshe Katzad said: “Yad Vashem serves as an important signport to all humankind… that warns how short the distance is between hatred and murder, between racism and genocide.â€)
* * *
For the best tours to the Holy Land, contact Meteor Tour Philippines at 0918-9125177, 0922-8232688, 0919-4062421 or 986-5137 and 557-6206 or email meteorphils@gmail.com. Meteor has a joint venture between five land providers from Turkey,Greece,Egypt, Israel and Jordan. Established in 1995, Meteor is headed by general manager Ligaya Tabirao whose 20 years expertise in the industry makes her the leader in religious tourism .The only travel agency invited to address the CBCP (Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines), Meteor services individual tourists as well as groups and companies.