Yogyakarta (pronounced “Jogjakarta”), located centrally in Indonesia’s most populous island of Java, is a destination that hardly ever figures on most Filipino tourists’ itineraries. Well, probably because it would take you forever to reach the place.
There’s no direct flight from Manila to Indonesia. So we took a connecting flight from Malaysia, which is three hours away from Manila. We had a two-hour stopover at Kuala Lumpur International Airport before boarding our flight to Jakarta. From Jakarta, we had to wait for another four hours before our flight to Yogyakarta. It took us more than 10 hours to reach this Asian destination.
Together with Travel Update Philippines’ Buddy Recio, The Manila Times’ Joel Egco, andTravelife’s Michael Angelo Liwanag we embarked on an adventure of a lifetime to Indonesia — upon the invitation of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism Republic of Indonesia — not exactly knowing what to expect, but nevertheless eager to explore the wealth of the historical and breathtaking sites of the country at our own pace.
The Temple On The Hill
Known as the “Neverending Asia” for its endless attractions and appeal, Yogyakarta makes a great jump-off point to a number of staggering historical attractions in the area. First stop: Candi Borobudur, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Borobudur is touted as one of the greatest Buddhist monuments in the world. It was built to honor the glory of both the Buddha and its founder, a true king Bodhisattva. This colossal temple was built “300 years before Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, and 400 years before work began on the great European cathedrals.
Located in the island Java, the temple sits majestically on a hilltop overlooking lush green fields and distant hills.
Before the entering the premises of Candi Borobudur, we were required to wear sarongs as a sign of respect for the candi (temple). The park leading to Borobudur is dotted with lush trees, which made the 10-minute noontime walk to the temple literally a walk in the park.
When we reached the foot of the temple, we were all in awe. The monument is a design marvel. We were so fascinated that each one of us went to different directions just to get a closer view of the intricate stone carvings. The stonework was built without the use of cement or mortar. In fact, it looks like a set of massive interlocking Lego blocks minus its bright colors.
The walls of the Borobudur are sculpted in bas-relief representing images from the life of Buddha. It has been hailed as the largest and most complete ensemble of Buddhist reliefs in the world. The narratives on the main walls read from right to left, those on the balustrade from left to right. This was done for the purpose of the Pradaksina, the ritual circumbulation, which the pilgrims make by moving clockwise, keeping the sanctuary to the right.
“Pradaksina! Pradaksina! You go that way!” shouted our tour guide, while pointing to the direction where we should begin our tour of the temple. He said that we must follow the Buddhist tradition of circumbulating or circling the temple in a clockwise direction.
“This tradition is a sign of giving respect to the candi. In doing so, you’d also be able to preserve your energy. It’s the shortest way to reach the top,” he added.
Borobudur is both a shrine to the Lord Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimage.
“The 10 levels of the temple symbolize the three divisions of the religion’s cosmic system,” noted our tour guide.
And so from the base of the temple, we made our way to the top of the monument through the three levels of Buddhist cosmology: Kamadhatu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and Arupadhatu (the world of formlessness). Completing this religious walk is symbolic of the path to enlightenment.
When we reached the top, we were greeted by a giant stupa, which sits 40 meters above the ground. Below it is a collection of over 72 smaller stupas, each containing a Buddha statue. Enclosed in this perforated stupa is the statue of Buddha. Some likened it to a wishing well. But instead of tossing coins before making a wish, you have to touch the middle finger of Buddha. I couldn’t squeeze my fat hand in the tiny hole. So instead of making a wish, I just closed my eyes, said a little prayer, and thanked the heavens for giving us the opportunity to see one of the world’s greatest wonders.
A Pilgrim And Shopper’s Haven
Fifteen kilometers northeast of Yogyakarta is yet another Unesco World Heritage Site — the Candi Prambanan. Touted as the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia, Prambanan is dedicated to the three great Hindu divinities: Shiva, the Destroyer; Brahma, the Creator; and Vishnu, the Sustainer. From afar, the temples looked like rockets, waiting to blast off from the ground.
The entire complex has decorated reliefs created based on Siva art, illustrating the Ramayana period, or the history of the Hindu hero, Rama. Walking around Prambanan, I couldn’t help but admire this masterpiece of human construction.
There can be no shortage of temples to visit in Indonesia. And so from Yogyakarta, we headed off to Bali and explored its magnificent places of worship.
Built in 1634 by I Gusti Agung Putu, the raja of Mengwi district, Taman Ayun, which literally translates to a beautiful garden, is considered a royal temple where the deities of the raja and other important gods are honored.
The temple is surrounded by a broad canal and can only be entered through a bridge leading to the candi bentar, the gate which gives access to the courtyard of the temple.
Upon entering the candi bentar, a straight, paved pathway led us through a well-manicured court garden with a fountain at the center. The fountain was built with nine water jets, four of which are positioned in the corners, the other four on the sub-cardinal points, and the last one in the center symbolizing the Dewa Nawa Sanga. Each jet symbolizes the nine main gods of Balinese Hinduism.
Another breathtaking temple is the Pura Tanah Lot situated right in the middle of the sea. Dramatically settled on a massive rock, it turns into an island at high tide.
The street leading to Tanah Lot is peppered with souvenir shops, which offers Balinese arts and crafts, T-shirts, even food items. This place provided a whiff of fresh air from our temple run. However, our male companions weren’t impressed. For serious shoppers like them, Ubud is the place to be.
The magical and enchanting Ubud is a biyahera’s paradise. Shopping is undeniably one of the locals’ fave activity aside, of course, from painting. The shops offer just about everything — from antiques to paintings, decorative items, clothes, bags and shoes, even whimsical trinkets and souvenir items. Prices vary widely, so be sure to practice your haggling skills before hitting the shops.
One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to Ketut Lyer, the Balinese shaman featured in the movie Eat, Pray, Love, which starred Julia Roberts. He was eating rice and kropek with his bare hands when we arrived in his place. And at that time, there was already 10 ladies waiting in line to ask for Ketut’s spiritual guidance. We could have stayed longer, but we had to catch a flight to Manila. But surely, we had hoarded enough memories to fill a book.