MANILA, Philippines - Ilocos is more than the source of big slabs of deep-fried pork or bagnet. Neither is it just a place where inabel or handmade cloth is loomed. It is much, much more than the traditional vegetable dish called pinakbet, grand Spanish-style mansions, or impressive historical churches made out of stone.
The Ilocos region, its proud natives like to say, is the birthplace of several Philippine presidents, the hometown of brave soldiers and martyrs, and training ground for poets, artists and heroes. It is the homeland of strong, industrious folk who travel and work in distant places, but eventually find their way back to their roots.
Driving at dusk from Laoag International Airport to the newly built three-star Ilocos Norte Hotel and Convention Center, we saw solid proof that the yearning for home and roots isn’t just empty talk; that Ilocanos plan ahead to be able to live in their hometowns again. More than a couple of brand-new houses stood by the roadside, quiet, sparsely lit and uninhabited now, but ready for when their balikbayan owners decide to come home.
That the Ilocanos are among the first documented overseas Filipino workers is supported by historical data. In 1906, the first batch of 15 Ilocano men left to work in the sugar plantations of Hawaii. Ten years later, in 1916, more than 18,000 workers followed. The diaspora continued and waves of Ilocanos migrated to Hawaii and California, oftentimes enduring hardship and discrimination. But the regional customs of frugality, perseverance and innate resourcefulness have placed the Ilocanos in good stead. Currently established and enjoying well-deserved success, both they and their kin who have remained in the Ilocos region look forward to being able to enjoy their prosperity.
The new Robinsons Mall Ilocos Norte is a timely answer to the Ilocanos’ current lifestyle needs. As the first and only full-service mall in the area is situated in the municipality of San Nicolas, approximately three kilometers from Laoag City, it has a floor area of more than 20,000 square meters. The mall houses three cinemas, clothing, sports and footwear outlets, appliance and gadget stores, food outlets and a whole lot more.
“Residents of the region no longer have to travel far for their various shopping needs,” says Melody Joson-dela Cruz, Robinsons Malls’ group property manager. “Even Ilocano balikbayans on vacation find the mall convenient since they no longer have to cut short their holiday to shop in Manila before flying out of the Philippines.”
What makes Robinsons Ilocos Norte mall distinct, she adds, is that many of the mall tenants and franchisees have roots in Ilocandia. “The mall is part of the community, and we want the locals to have a sense of ownership. The tenant mix is carefully selected so that we have both popular retail brands and home-grown business ventures.” Apart from having hometown favorites housed under one roof, the added advantage of encouraging locals to set up businesses in the mall is that they are more likely to take extra effort to manage their ventures.
A spacious activity area and WiFi zone have contributed to the popularity of the mall. But, as is generally the case throughout the Philippines, the food choices are a major draw. While franchises remain popular, credit must be given to local players that are holding up their own. Favorite restaurant La Preciosa, for example, remains a top choice for popular dishes like bagnet served with KBL (kamatis, bagoong, lasona), dinengdeng or a stew of local vegetables, and fish kilawen or ceviche. Carrot cake is one of the most popular desserts at La Preciosa, perhaps a reflection that the Ilocanos’ palates are in tune to contemporary preferences.
However, there is an admirable effort among Ilocanos to localize, or more accurately, “Ilocanize,” current favorites. C&E Pizza and Pasta’s tagline is “The taste of home,” and owner Candy Caluya introduced us to pizza topped with bagnet and gamet (seaweed.) “We are like David competing against the Goliath pizza chains,” says Candy. But imbued with the Ilocano’s sense of bravery and derring-do, she is unfazed by the formidable competition from the big pizza franchises
Ilocos Norte remains a top destination for Chinese tourists, with flights from Kaohsiung arriving regularly at the Laoag International Airport. However, David Andres of Everything’s Chinese Catering Services says that although the occasional Chinese tourist finds his way to the mall store, Ilocos Norte’s locals are the Chinese restaurant’s main market. David, and his friends Alan Lao of Alvin’s Super Sizzling and Joseph Ganaden of Jogan’s Rice Toppings and Grills say that they make it a point to keep their prices accessible. The Ilocano remains a careful spender, after all. Local comfort food like dinardaraan (dinuguan), linengta (boiled meat) and beef imbaliktad (grilled beef) are also served in an outlet called KMJ Foodhouse.
The Ilocano flavor is not confined to food, and local building materials have been incorporated in the design of Robinsons Ilocos Norte. Damili or terracotta tiles and bricks that are traditionally made in San Nicolas are used as accents within, as well as in the exterior walls of the mall.
“We are a business-friendly local government unit but we encourage investors in our area to use local materials and support local industry,” said San Nicolas Mayor Dr. Alfredo P. Valdez Jr. Apart from damili, the municipality is known for banga making (pottery), blacksmithing and tanneries. Although San Nicolas is the second smallest municipality in the province in terms of land area, its progress is impressive. A mid-level condominium development—the first in the area—is being built close to the Robinsons Ilocos Norte mall. Still, there is a conscious effort by residents to maintain the town’s old structures and landmarks. And indeed, this is one place where old developments happily co-exist with the new.