2. The drive to Davao from Bukidnon was smooth all the way, with superb roads made enjoyable with scenic verdant landscapes, past zigzag and rolling hills.
3. Getting to know Makilala. Texting my good friend pastry chef/instructress Jill Sandique (who lives in Manila) that we would pass by her hometown of Makilala, the town just after Kidapawan City, she arranged for us to have lunch at her mother’s house, just behind their Sto. Niño Hospital along the national highway. Dr. Lita Sandique prepared some familiar food, like mongo soup, green mango salad, steamed ulang (freshwater prawns), grilled hito, and grilled tuna belly. Lunch was capped with some native durian and mangosteen from the Sandiques’ farm. A tour of several farms followed with Jill’s brother John as guide.
4. "Would you like that with ice cream, sir?" The locals fondly call this mobile banana sorting station at the Dole plantation as the "burger station." They are moved from one area to another as needed when harvesting within the vast plantation.
5. A rubber tree is tapped for its latex (dagta), which is collected in cups. The tree is scored in a downward spiral fashion at least one foot per month for it to bleed its latex, and one panel (a single layer of bark) per five years. The lifespan of the tree is anywhere from 30 to 40 years if tapped properly, but if carelessly wounded, it could rot and last only for 10 years.
When the liquid latex is collected, it will be made into either cup-lump, or placed into a tub and an acid is introduced for it to coagulate (just like with pig’s blood to make dinuguan) to form into coagulum. Both the cup-lump and the coagulum will serve as raw material for what will be called crumb rubber. It will be milled from one roller machine to the other, after which it is dried and pressed into bales for shipment.
6. The latex can also be processed by putting a certain chemical and is transformed into rubber sheets and air-dried by hanging. This is called crepe and is of higher grade than crumb rubber, but more labor is needed to process it. Both the crepe and rubber crumb are the raw materials in making rubber products, like tires and rubber bands. Latex is also used in making surgical gloves, shower curtains, condoms and the like.
7. The Leréve Swimming Resort in Kisante, Makilala has spring water-fed swimming pools, gazebos, picnic tables, and a natural pond for tilapia fishing amid a lush tropical rainforest.
8. The town of Digos is known for its bibingkâ. Its version is much like the one I have tried in Oton, Iloilo. Coconut strips are mixed into a batter of sticky rice flour. It is a heavier and chewier version compared to the ones we have in Luzon, where regular rice flour and eggs are the standard ingredients.
9. Alas puno. Common sights in Mindanao are these jeepneys, literally filled to the rafters, also tricycles and motorcycles as well. The term alas puno refers to the vehicle’s departure when it is filled, and does not follow any specified schedule, as in ala una (1 o’clock), alas dos (2 o’clock), etc.
10. Durian on the run. A delivery of the forbidden fruit to the market.
11. Pampanga’s connection at Pork’s Park. The Nenita Quality Food Corp., owner of Mindanao’s only AAA-abattoir and meat processing facility, led by Ricky R. Floirendo, together with the Hog Raisers of Davao, has been delivering to Pampanga by RORO an average of two 20-foot containers per week (at least 15 tons of pork cuts each) to some 20 members of Pampanga Association of Meat Processors (PAMPro), including Pampanga’s Best and Mekeni’s Food Corp. It takes three days for the shipment from Davao to arrive its destination in Pampanga.
12. Organically grown bottled goodness from Nenita Farms: Achara, pickled gherkins, pickled papaya, fiery pickled jalapeño, green mango in salt water, mango-tomato salsa (great as a dip for Nenita’s golden bagnet!), palmito heart, exotic pickled fern, and pickled coconut heart (ubod ng sarap!).
13. As Dan and I were driving through the long approach to Malayan House, our home for the next two nights, inside Nenita Farms, as we drove past chico, papaya and coffee orchards, I told him of the most delicious lechon and golden nuggets of bagnet we were served here four years ago during a visit with a group of foodies, including the late Doreen Fernandez, Larry Cruz, Glenda Barretto, Lory Tan, Fr. Rene Javellana, to name a few, hosted by Margie Moran Floirendo.
As we entered the premises of the guesthouse, lo and behold, the first sight we see were two lechons being roasted right before our very eyes. We looked at each other and gleefully made a high five.
"This couldn’t be our reception, is it? We’ll have one lechon each, hehehe!" said Dan thanking our lucky stars.
"Mete katang adwa," ("We’re dead balls") I said in Pampango, as we both suffer from gout.
To our chagrin, though mercifully for us, it was not to be. There was a veterinary convention ongoing in the city, and Nenita Farms’ resident veterinarian assistant vice president Dr. Ed Dantes, a cabalen from Tarlac, was going to host a dinner reception for the delegates that evening.
Of course, we were invited, as well, and we partook of the sumptuous dinner prepared by in-house chefs Lydia and Juliet. And yes, the golden nuggets were served, too. You can just imagine the state Dan and I were the following morning.
Malayan House is open for social functions, like weddings, debuts and seminars. It offers lodging for the weary traveler with its four rooms on the second floor. There are plenty to do for kids on vacation at the farm: Horseback riding, hiking, tilapia fishing, fruit picking (seasonal), and a plant tour.
14. The busload of delegates were feted a tribal dance performed by the Maharhika Dance Company, with its members all scholars of the Rizal Memorial College in Davao City.
15. Dried mangoes being processed at the Sungee Plant in Toril, Davao City.
16. Afternoon delight. Pulling their meager savings together, these Metro Aides (street cleaners) take an afternoon break feasting on durian at the Sungee Durian Park. Selling at P50 per kilo for both the Chanee and Arancillo varieties, the group went on a binge, denting some P400 off their fortune. A customer who chanced upon them doubled their feast treating them with another round of the heavenly delights.
17. An improved local cultivar, the Arancillo durian’s flesh is yellow, firm and a velvety, butter-like custard, with its taste and aroma stronger than the Chanee variety from Thailand. It has hints of almond toffee and has a bittersweet finish reminiscent of burnt caramel. (Ha! Akala ng mga wine connoisseurs sila lang ang magaling!) The locals favor the native varieties for their much stronger flavor and smell.
We learned from Edgar Lagman of Sungee Durian Park that the Pinoys’ per capita consumption of durian is at a low 200 grams per annum, far below Thailand’s 14 kilos, Singapore’s 10 kilos, and Malaysia’s 8.5 kilos. Futhermore, it is only the Thais who prefer to eat it almost ripe (manibalang) with the flesh still firm, while other Asians prefer it ripe.
18. If you are into batik, ethnic arts and crafts, the Aldevinco Shopping Center along CM Recto Ave. is the place for you. It is sandwiched between Marco Polo Hotel and Ateneo de Davao University. In photo is Joy of Sheila’s Gift Shop showing a ready-made batik malong for P150. Haggling is necessary.
19. At the Malagos Garden Resort at Puentaspina Compound in Davao’s Baguio district, located several kilometers outside the city, a rare outdoor exhibit of National Artist Napoleon Abueva’s sculptures is ongoing until the end of March. The resort is actually a sanctuary for butterflies, exotic birds, including peacocks, ostriches, and eagles, and promotes mushroom cultivation. It offers a countryside and wildlife day tours, inclusive of lunch, with pickup points from Davao City hotels.
20. A Dutch treat at De Bonte Koe (the spotted cow) at the Habana Compound on J. Rizal St., with Mia Dragon and her husband Vince Floirendo, Dan Tayag and Ricky Floirendo. House specialties include Dutch delicacies like pickled herring, baked mussels, sausages and stews. I had a wonderfully lean and tender ostrich steak.
21. The following morning, we left Malayan House at 6 a.m. and headed northwards to Butuan City. The drive up to Tagum City was smooth along an impressive four-lane highway. However, it was a grueling ride on the Monkayo-Montevista stretch with the road currently undergoing rehab. It was another three-hour stretch of rural land before we reached Butuan, with some more intermittent road repairs along the way. Above are wooden trays being sold by the roadside in Santa Cruz just before reaching Tagum City.
22. Lacking in mass transit, the preferred mode of transport in this vast agricultural area is called the Skylab, which is actually a motorbike with a long plank of wood installed at the rear (and a canopy to boot) to accommodate as many passengers possible. It’s quite a tough balancing act to follow. Another popular transpo is the so-called habal-habal (literally one on top of another in the vernacular), riding the rear (angkas) of a motorbike with as many as can be loaded on a two-seater thing. You will be amazed just how many can be made to fit on that motorbike.
23. Sawali is made from the ribs of palm fronds, selling at P65 per 4x8-feet sheet by the roadside in San Francisco, Bayugan 2, Agusan del Sur, where you will pass through palm oil plantations. Sawali is normally used as a walling material. The interesting design is created with the interplay of the outer skin-inner fiber of the rib.
24. Arriving Butuan City at around 1 p.m., we roughly had an hour’s break before we moved further north to Surigao. Here, our cabalen Al Lumanlan, contacted by SMS, awaited us at Lutong Bahay ni Aling Cora along R. Calo St. Ever the true-blue Capampangan, Al ordered a sumptuous lunch of Aling Cora’s famous chicken barbecue, grilled bagi (unicorn fish), sautéed native mushrooms, kinilaw na tangingue sa gata, and crispy fried shrimps. Al had adopted this city as his home, married to Butuanon Sarah Calo. To relieve his homesickness for his mother tongue, he regularly meets with some 280 of his transplanted cabalens at the Aguman Deng Capampangan Club, of which he is its vice president.
25. The two-hour drive up north to Surigao City was fairly smooth, through rolling hills and scenic views of Lake Mainit.
26. Upon reaching Surigao City, on the downhill road leading to the pier, you will pass by Borromeo Church with its commanding view of Bilanbilan Bay. On the left hand side of the horizon, where the white speckles are, is the embarkation point for island hopping adventures.
Unspoiled Daku Island, just off the island of main Siargao, comes to mind, having been there two summers ago with our good friends Billy and Marlene Mondoñedo at their fabulous beach house designed by Ed Calma. Cloud Nine Beach, located north of Gen. Luna on Siargao, is touted as the country’s surfing capital, where the annual Siargao International Cup is held every October.
With several stops along the way, we barely made it to the 4:30 p.m. boat ride to Liloan, Southern Leyte. We were told it was going to depart at 5 p.m. that is why we took our sweet time taking photos and enjoying the scenery. Alas puno!
Surigao was to be our last stop on Mindanao Island. This was going to be our fourth RORO ride in our 14-day journey, and we are now officially on the Eastern Nautical Highway.
Sungee Durian Park is at SODACO Compound, Km. 9, Sasa, Davao City. Call (082)234-4971 to 76 for inquiries.
De Bonte Koe Restaurant is at Habana Compound, along J. Rizal St., Davao City.
Contact the Davao sales office of the Malagos Garden Resort at (082)221-1545 or by telefax at (082)221-1395.
Aldevinco Shopping Center is located along CM Recto Ave., Davao City.
Call Lutong Bahay ni Aling Cora, located R. Calo St. in Butuan City, (085)341-7474.