Fairyland in China

In a nearby land where winter, spring, summer and fall take turns to highlight the Tibetan culture, there is a place whose scenic beauty resembles that of a fairyland. Paradisiacal is the allure of Sichuan, a province in the southwest part of China. Here, glorious waterfalls cascade whole year round; several lakes of all shapes and sizes, whose colors vary from azure to emerald, pink to white, indigo to violet, are a refreshing site; flora and fauna peacefully thrive and coexist with human beings whose mission in life is to protect the province’s biodiversity.

"Are you ready to experience all the beauty and bounty of Sichuan?" asked our host, Mr. Peng Yi, in his thick Chinese accent while putting aside a book with exquisite photographs of the place from where he hails. Truth was, while we were having a meeting at a restaurant in Manila, my mind already meandered. The next thing I knew I was on board Air Philippines on a chartered flight en route to Chengdu, the capital city of the Sichuan province.

"This is the first time we organized a big group of Filipinos to visit the magical places of Sichuan like Chengdu, Jiuzhaigou Valley, Huang Long, among others," enthused the very energetic and influential Angel Ramos Bognot, president of National Association of Independent Travel Agencies, the biggest travel organization in the Philippines. and Afro Asian Travel and Tours Inc., referring to the 90 strong Filipino delegation composed of travel agency owners, tourists, mediamen and writers.

After four hours, we landed at Chengdu. This city is a well-planned Chinese metropolis with wide boulevards, lanes and parks. The sun had just set when we arrived in the Sichuan restaurant to enjoy their local cuisine of mabo tofu, yunan ham, lemon chicken and kamote rice. We rested early that evening after our winsome tour guide Betty Wu informed us that the journey to Jiuzhaigou from Chengdu by bus would take eight hours. The next day our jolly group boarded bus No. 3 as there were three tourist buses to accommodate the 90 of us. We stopped by a grocery store for supplies like biscuits, water, juices, and the handy oxygen- in —can to be used when we reached areas with higher elevation. Fashionable shopaholics and top travel executives Maritess Sotto, Clotha de la Paz , Mary Tan and Jean Lugan bought beautiful Tibetan shawls while gregarious trio Mila Abad, Vicky Gonzalez and Ina Ledesma purchased jade, crystals, Chinese fans and other precious souvenirs nearby. Betty reminded everyone to change their dollars to Yuan while in Chengdu because it is difficult to change currency in Jiuzhaigou Valley, a World Heritage Site. We hardly felt the many hours on the bus as our driver competently showed us the breathtaking scenery, because my bestfriend Büm D. Tenorio Jr. entertained every one with his funny songs and lively antics while Ricky Tio from Cebu was enamored by our tour guide Betty. Equally remarkable were the impeccable roads and highways with European lampposts. I marveled at the ingenuity of man who managed to build such roads and make the world heritage site accessible. It was the company owned by our host Mr. Peng Li that did the impressive roadwork. This marriage of man and nature overwhelmed me.

To say that we were floored when we reached Jiuzhaigou Valley is underlining the obvious. Affectionately called the "Sacred Mountain and Water" Jiuzhaigou is an outstanding work of nature where mountains and lakes lie in peace and harmony. Attractive sites and tranquil surroundings are a fine collection of sights, colors and melodies. This national place of scenic interest also earned the monikers "Fairyland on Human Earth" and "World of Fairy Tales"

It is interesting to note that only 10,000 tourists a day are allowed to visit Jiuzhaigou Valley. There are special buses that use natural gas that can enter the vicinities of the place. Like walking into a dream, we viewed the multi-colored waters. The water is crystal clear so you can see tree trunks all the way to the bottom. The most unique aspect of the scenery is the waterfalls linking many of the lakes in a fairyland network. Scattered around the park are Tibetan settlements so all through the hills you can see bright prayer flags fluttering in the wind. Tibetans are one of the five cultural minorities in China.

"The four seasons of Jiuzhaigou are equally charming," said Betty. Spring ushers in greenness with birds’ singing, as well as peach blossoms. Summer sees greenness in its prime, waterfalls and sunshine waking up every living organism, particularly wild flowers over the hills. Autumn is the most beautiful of all Jiuzhaigou’s seasons when tree leaves turn rosy, light yellow, purple, silver, gray, brown and ochre. Winter is such a time when icy twigs and green branches cling on to jade-like trees, resembling a picture scroll of traditional Chinese landscape painting.

During winter, we were told that around Jiuzhaigou there are towering snow mountains over looking limpid lake water. Waterfalls are in various postures, pushing the rapids rushing downstream. What a sight to view waterfalls, bodies of water in its frozen glory!

Stretching for several miles, with a drop of about 100 meters, Jiuzhaigou has 19 lakes of varied sizes, descending in a manner of terraces. Among these lakes – like the Mirror Lake, Panda Lake, Tiger Lake, Arrow Bamboo Lake and Swan Lake – grow dense groves of willows, poplars, pines, spruces and other arbors and shrubs. Water climbs over dikes and runs through groves stems, formulating a wide and slow waterfall.

As we drove along the impeccable roads, I marvelled at the picturesque scenery of mountains meadows, rice and corn fields and orchards of apples, oranges, peaches, plums and grapes which were being sold along the roadside. Jiuzhaigou Valley is saturated in spiritual energy for just being here can be a healing experience. Imagine seeing numerous Tibetan villages with villagers in their finest garments as incense fragrance wafts in the air and prayer flags in many colors wave to the sun, moon, stars, sky. Here, prayer and music of the Tibetans are a natural part of life performed for the gods rather than for profit. We truly enjoyed the cultural show that showcased their lively traditions through song and dance. A special wine and dried beef delicacy was served during the entertaining show. The Tibetans are a beautiful people with their fair complexion, high nose and cheekbones.Perhaps my search for the most perfectly preserved paradise has been found in Juizhaigou Valley because not only is their natural resources the way God had created the Garden of Eden to be, but the fascinating Tibetans whose culture dates back to the cradle of civilization, continue to live by the teaching and traditions of their ancestors. That in itself is a miracle.

Like Jiuzhaigou Valley, Huanglong, another World Heritage Site, is a site to behold. Huanglong is beguiling visitors for its preserved natural resources is a celebration in itself – of love, of respect for many generations to appreciate and learn from. While many visitors head for shopping in urban Chinese cities like Beijing and Xiamen, the people and guests here look to the mountains, gorgeous lakes, waterfalls, and streams. A visit to this misty valley and rice terraced mountainside is a cathartic, cleaning experience for the mind, body, and soul. We felt this all the more when we reached the waterfalls called Grotto.

Huanglong is also a land where fairies are seemingly in existence. It is here, deep in the heart of this magical fairyland that the largest variety of flora, fauna-birds can be found – just gaze out across the emerald fields the bamboo forests where the giant pandas roam or perhaps a rushing stream. Water holds an almost mythical quality to the Tibetans across the mountains.

Another site worthy to see Dujiangyan irrigation system. This age-old water project dates back thousands of years ago and is also listed in the World Heritage Site. What the Great Wall of China is to the North, the Dujiangyan is to the South. The irrigation system which has prevented flooding in this side of China ever since it was constructed, is considered as the last greatest engineering in the history of Chinese civilization.

A visit to Chengdu is not complete without going to the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base. At the breeding center, we got to see many panda bears. We arrived early in the morning to see the adorable creatures eating breakfast. They are just so round and cute, sitting up and eating various twigs and shoots of bamboo, spitting out the hard bits onto their tummies. Another highlight is the Chinese opera show where a performer changes masks every split second, flexible dancers and talented singers showcase their prowess on a stage set against a traditional oriental structure.

Visiting Sichuan province definitely made an impact in our lives. Its awesome scenery resemble the masterpieces of famed artists Van Gogh, Monet and Cezanne. Its four seasons are comparable to the Canadian Rockies and the Swiss Alps. Its culture is vibrantly alive that one will automatically imbibe it. Sichuan is a balm to the soul. Experience it for yourself.
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For more information, call Afro Asian Travel and Tours Inc. at 523-7501;525-4374;523-6587 and look for Angel or Wilma.
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Post me a note at miladay@pacific.net.

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