Baguio swept me off my feet on a foggy afternoon in October 1995. Even if I was there for a retreat designed to give our faculty a much-needed spiritual boost, it was my first trip and I was so thrilled. After checking in at Pages Hall, a picturesque dormitory inside Teachers’ Camp, my co-teachers and I settled at the lobby to relax. I remember sitting on this worn-out leather sofa and staring at the wide bay window. What I saw outside made me jump from my seat, abandon my friends and run out like a madman.
Just to get a better view of the sunset.
It was the most spectacular view. Imagine the splash of the sun’s red, orange and purple behind the pine trees’ green – a wonderful intermingling of colors. I shivered in my sweater but by then nothing mattered. Captivated, I stood in awe at the work of the Great Artist, the One so powerful to have created a picture so beautiful.
Later on, I would appreciate other blessings: the crisp green vegetables tossed in my salad, the dozen roses I bought for a song at the public market and the luxury of sleeping under thick, soft blankets amid natural air-conditioning. I have to admit, however, that everything was not perfect and there were a few glitches. The city had a water supply problem at that time and we had to scrimp on drinking water. The water heater was down, too, and we had to bathe in ice water daily. But as always, when one falls in love, you turn a blind eye to shortcomings and focus on the good, of which there was so much.
After having been to Baguio countless times after that first trip, the city does not seem as magical anymore. Hands down, however, it is still the best place to have fun, especially when one does not have enough money to burn. Baguio has something unique to offer every season but the best time to visit would be in February when the weather is at its coldest and the temperature drops to as low as 12 degrees. Moreover, the city is all agog in celebrating Panagbenga or the annual flower festival. There is great pride in being considered the top producer of the most beautiful flowers in the country. Schools, civic groups and companies work hard at outdoing one another in creating magnificent floats.
In order to enjoy Baguio, three things are essential: a comfortable pair of walking shoes, enough clothes to keep you warm and a heart strong enough to take in all the treats the city can offer. Inch your way into the crowd and find a good seat on a Session Road sidewalk to watch the parade of flower-bedecked floats. Marvel at the energy of the street dancers and admire their colorful costumes. Take pictures near the cliff at Mines View Park, with the beauty of the mountains as backdrop. Go horseback-riding at Camp John Hay. Delight in the art exhibits at Tam-Awan Village and discover why so many talented artists have decided to call Baguio their home. Be proud of the cadets at the Philippine Military Academy and learn more about courage and valor. Enjoy the free concerts at Burnham Park, a wide expanse of green right in the heart of the city.
A trip to Baguio is incomplete without savoring good, glorious food. By far, this is the only place in the country where it would be too easy to turn vegetarian. It is possible to have a different salad concoction every day since there is a wide selection of the biggest, freshest and (best of all) cheapest vegetables at the public market. Coffee lovers would also enjoy mixing and brewing different types of special Benguet coffee beans.
For those blessed with a sweet tooth, sample a taste of heaven with the Good Shepherd nuns’ ube jam, chocolate crinkles, lengua de gato and the famous peanut and cashew brittle. It only takes minutes for the goods to fly off the shelves so it is best to go to the convent early in the morning.
Find time to reprise John Lennon’s Strawberry Fields Forever. Take an hour-long jeepney ride from the city to the strawberry farm in La Trinidad. For a minimum fee, pick as many strawberries and fill a basket to your heart’s content.
Shopping for pasalubong is a breeze since many items could be bought on a shoestring budget. Thick brooms, wallets and beads go for as low as P30 each; hand-woven blankets for P85; native backpacks and knitted blouses for P100 and bottles of delicacies for around P50 to P100. For the practical joker, buy the ultimate souvenir – a wood figure of an amply endowed man hidden inside a barrel.
Service at restaurants is generally slow but cab drivers are honest and courteous. Buses leave on time so it is ideal to buy tickets in advance. Although accommodations are filled up only during peak season, it is also best to make reservations at any time.
Baguio is called the City of Pines but it is also referred to as the honeymoon capital. It comes from most people’s belief that cold weather and romance go together. Truly, nothing compares to the happiness the company of a loved one brings. There is much to be said about the comfort of cuddling under a blanket or enjoying breathtaking views. However, in the absence of a significant other, one could also have a great time with friends or relatives. Some of my best memories come from images of various trips to Baguio. I remember ruminating with friends on the meaning of life during a hazy afternoon at Tam-Awan Village, at a time when we were so disappointed with our love life. Intermittent rains prevented us from going out so we stayed in our Ifugao hut, ate our pasalubong and poured our hearts out. It was catharsis at its best. I also recall camping out with friends at a house inside the PMA compound. We told stories, drank and laughed till the wee hours of the morning. I think of a birthday I celebrated at Café by the Ruins and having an open face tuna sandwich straight from Nick Joaquin’s recipe book.
More than having so many gifts, Baguio is loved because it brings peace to the troubled soul. It is one of the last sanctuaries. Despite ecological problems and the threat of commercialization, the place remains beautiful. The glory of nature is a reminder that there must really be a Higher Power – whoever that may be – in charge of the universe. Since there must be some order, hope springs. No matter how bad things may seem at the moment, everything will soon fall into place.
The sense that as a Filipino I could call Baguio mine also makes it more special. Although I have been very lucky to have seen the world and sometimes think of San Francisco weather or Portland roses, Baguio has not lost its touch on me. There is the comfort of knowing that it will always be there for me. Like a faithful lover, I could run away anytime and it will always welcome me in its arms.