MANILA, Philippines - Kaftans are wonderful for many reasons — the length and movement add instant glamour, the prints are exotic and reminiscent of adventure, and they come in shapes that allow us to do pretty much anything, including effortlessly photograph well and indulge at the buffet. Pieces like these are summer travel essentials, but summer is more than just about kaftan dressing. Rustan’s Private Labels feature all-occasion silhouttes done with that distinct summer flair — you know, pale pastels (hello, radiant orchid!), exotic floral and botanical prints, as well as neutrals to mix and match with.
For Criselda Lontok and Jojie Lloren, who both design for Rustan’s Private Labels, it’s best to go by “Next to Nature†when it comes to summer dressing. This means embracing the lush wilderness in prints and borrowing fluid forms from the earth, sea and sky. It’s also the prevailing theme this summer 2014 — on the runway, flowers and foliage abound; camels, tans, deep blues, forest greens and sunset hues like dusky lavender, burnt orange and pink are hot; while soft fabric in cascading and roomy silhouettes reign. The STAR picked the creative minds of these two designers and asked them about summer trends, dream vacations, and fashion icons.
Philippine STAR: If you could get away to any place this summer, where would you go and what five items would you not leave home without?
Jojie Lloren: I would go to Oslo! I wouldn’t leave home without my passport, wallet, sunscreen, phone and toiletries.
Criselda Lontok: I would say I would love to get away to either Santorini or Capri. I love the fact that these places are where you will find people who really dress up so nicely and still be lounging and having fun. I can see myself wearing bright colored kaftans in aqua blue that will complement the backdrop of the sky and the waters. My accessories would be bright corals and pearls that will complement the beautiful sunsets. The five items I will never leave home without would be my makeup kit where I keep all my makeup essentials, sunblock, a nice big hat, my cellphone, and, of course, my credit card.
What is your concept of summer wear?
Jojie: Summer wear should be airy, easy and comfortable. Showing more skin is a plus.
Criselda: Summer wear to me goes beyond showing off skin. It is predictable that summer wear has to be tiny and baring skin. My concept of summer wear is in cool light fabric and nice colorful prints. My summer wear is something you can wear to beach weddings.
What would you most likely be seen wearing this season?
Jojie: White cotton tees as always.
Criselda: I’d be seen wearing nice cool pieces like ponchos or kaftans if I were to be in a resort but while in the city, or at work, I’d still be in my Criselda top in bright colors made of either jersey, chiffon or polysilk and a nice fitting pair of pants. I can be wearing my Marilen, Joma, Rachel or Dolman Regular. If you want to know how these items look, check out my boutique in all Rustan’s branches. I have always been a believer of wearing happy bright colors. They make the person wearing it and the people seeing her feel a little happier. An appropriate piece of garment should be worn for every occasion.
Who are your summer icons?
Criselda: My three all-season style icons are Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie O. They have influenced my style and they to me are timeless and classic just like my brand.
How would you describe your collection under Rustan’s Private Label?
Jojie: My collections for Jill and Luna are timeless pieces that are relaxed and comfortable.
Criselda: My collections ever since I started have always been inspired by my travels and my own passion for fashion. They are classic, timeless, and age appropriate. My collection is a mixture of what I’d wear for every occasion in my life. We have items you can wear to lunch dates, resort wear, travel and even formal wear good enough to wear to gala events. I am extremely particular with using the prints of the fabric work for the garment. I try them all myself to know exactly how they fit and feel.
What are the challenges and the joys of creating ready-to-wear?
Jojie: Working within parameters like budget, limited variety of fabrics available, and consumer choices/demands makes it challenging. Making classic designs look new and current is more challenging. When people write through Facebook or tell me that they patronize my labels and how much they like the pieces they bought makes me incredibly happy. Also, when the cash register go “cash-ingâ€!
Criselda: Creating garments from raw material sourcing, to designing have always been my love. When it comes to developing the items I am very hands on. I guess the challenges come in when the business side comes in. Of course, there are sales targets to meet and growths to achieve but I keep that in mind, too, when I create my collections, but it is my more my heart that works when I am at work. Today, I admit I have my competitors but I see them as a healthy competition. They keep me up on my toes to continue to challenge myself after 30 years that I can still offer more to my loyal clients.
What kind of woman would wear your collection?
Jojie: A woman who’s confident. A woman who knows who she is and what she wants.
Criselda: A woman who agrees with me is the kind of woman who’d wear my collection: “Looking good is great, but looking good with flair is even greater.†Dressing up nicely doesn’t have to be pricey nor does it have to be difficult.
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Rustan’s Private Labels features 12 collections — Criselda, which is all about color and silk jersey tops, cigarette pants, floral jacquard coats and shift dresses; Oleg Cassini Ladies, inspired by monochromatic jungle prints and rich earth tones on classic blazers and dress suits; Oleg Cassini Men, which makes travel fashion easy with cotton pique shirts, cotton-blend dress shirts and twill shorts and chinos; Lady Rustan, featuring accessories, bags and shoes of the season; Private Moments, a collection of silk, satin and cotton sleepwear to lounge around in; Jill and Luna, with pieces designed by Jojie Lloren who transforms fabric through draping, cuts and unusual seam lines; Culte Femme, which is all about tropical prints and psychedelic botanical patterns; Belle Mama, featuring graphic and geometric patterns on maternity wear; Bellissa, a collection that takes one on a tropical safari with designs especially made for the curvier woman; U Girls, young and trendy pieces with accessories and U Boys, which features sports-inspired off-duty shirts, hoodies and pullovers.