MANILA, Philippines - The thing I loved the most about living in Paris was that on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, when I didn’t have anything particular to do but didn’t want to stay home, I would grab my jacket, slip on a pair of comfy shoes and just walk. I would walk through parks, turn random street corners, discovering new places to eat, cute shops, quaint bars to visit later on. When I’d get tired, I’d simply plop down on a chair in a café by the sidewalk and relax. I often had a book with me and would just take pleasure in being alone, having a glass of wine, watching the world go by. It was a quite celebration of life. Counting my blessings, being at peace with myself.
On the occasions I was with friends, we would do the same. Walk around the city aimlessly until we were tired, then we’d choose a corner café, fight for a spot on the terrace. Especially when the weather was nice and warm, we took every opportunity possible to sit outdoors. That was prime real estate. People would wait in line and beg the waiters for a spot outside. We would have some cold rose and the afternoon would languidly turn into evening. From apero hour we would gently slip into dinner, as the waiters deftly and discreetly changed tables settings, setting cutlery and linens. This was called the café culture. Back in the day, philosophers, writers, artists, students… sat around cafes, drinking wine, sipping coffee, exchanging thoughts and ideas… pondering life.
One of the things that used to frustrate me when I first moved back to Manila from Paris was that it was nearly impossible to simply just walk around. Everything is always enclosed and grouped together in malls. It was difficult to find a nice place to take a leisurely stroll, discover new restos, shops and cafes… eat street side without being choked by pollution and traffic… Almost all nice restaurants were indoors and it was never even an option to eat outside.
Then there’s Burgos Circle at Forbestown Center in Fort Bonifacio. The first time I went there a few years back, we ate at Henry’s Place by Good Earth. We chose a table outside and being in the Ber months the weather was just perfect. Not too hot, not too humid. I remember having a great meal, rich and flavorful made even better by the presence of Chef Henry himself. More importantly, we all came away from dinner exclaiming to each other how wonderful it was to dine on the sidewalk. The ambience was festive, with the street bordered with other restaurants, tables and clients.
Nowadays I still like to go on my pleasantly lonely strolls and get some relaxing me time. Maybe bring along a book and settle down for some coffee and a sweet treat at Sweet Bella Desserts. If I’m missing Paris, I’ll have one of their macarons! Then, to decompress from such a hectic work schedule, one of my favorite things to do is to have a leisurely pamper day. Louis Phillip Kee salon has some of the plushest salon chairs I know. I could spend the entire afternoon there getting a hair treatment, mani-pedi, a back massage… the works! Their staff is attentive and skilled, plus I love the fact that I can read my favorite blogs online using their free wifi.
After such a luxuriously lazy moment, it’s nice to stretch your legs and walk around. I love checking out boutiques, doing some shopping, just wandering about. I have two furry friends at home so definitely a stop at Dogs in The City is in order. They have a great selection of collars, leashes, doggie beds… I like buying my dogs some treats. They love milkbones and I know they’d be so happy when I get home. I’ll also often pass by Barcino’s to purchase a bottle or two of cava to keep my ref well stocked in case of a celebration.
By this time I’m thirsty and in the good old Parisian tradition, maybe have a glass of wine by the sidewalk and some foie gras to start with at Café de Paris while waiting for friends to join me. Then for dinner, one of my favorite spots at Burgos Circle is L’Entrecote. I love their Pissaladiere. A flakey pastry topped with gruyere cheese, sweet caramelized onions and some savory anchovy and black olives baked, crisp and melty. Of course as a main, how can one not have their L’Entrecote menu. A simple fresh green salad, with walnuts and Dijon dressing. Then perfectly cooked slices of sirloin steak swimming in their luscious secret herb butter sauce served with a mountain of thin and crisp fries. Just like in Paris, they serve it on a platter, kept warm by candles so the sauce slowly bubbles. The trick is to pile on some fries onto the platter and let them soak up that sauce. Trop bon!
Apart from the wonderful food… nothing beats the atmosphere. Sitting out on the sidewalk, the street lit up by the joyful warmth of the neighboring stores, the soft glow of the red canopy umbrellas... The cool breeze that comes with the promise of Christmas. The chatter of happy customers… A view of the park with large towering trees adorned by glittering lights… Simple, hearty yet delicious cuisine, a glass of velvety Bordeaux and the company of good friends… A window to the Parisian lifestyle in the heart of Manila… What more could anyone hope for?
I would love to hear your experiences with Burgos Circle. Share with me your story, your favorite shops and restos, your special moments of celebration, alone or with loved ones. The best stories will be published in the Food and Leisure Section of Philippine STAR and the writer of my favorite one will be treated to lunch out with me, so we can celebrate the season together!