Hong Kong hasn’t changed much, but I couldn’t help but wonder if the harsh realities of SARS succeeded in any way to soften or change for the better local merchants’ trading and business ethics. I thought of this as I remembered past articles about New Yorkers, known for being quite stoic and not-exactly-friendly, becoming warmer around the edges after the 9-11 attacks. SARS and 9-11 may vary in terms of emotional pain inflicted and the number of lives lost, but both are, without a doubt, trying and tragic signs of the times.
In Hong Kong, ask any merchant how business was at the peak of SARS and they would throw their hands up in the air in exasperation and utter "…So bad, very bad." Suffice it to say that in as much as there are those who will move heaven and earth to serve the customer’s needs and succeed in making a sale, there still are also those who choose to be rudely shrewd. But if it’s any consolation, there ultimately are more of the former than the latter.
Hong Kong has always been one of my favorite places. We normally stay on Hong Kong island but this time around we found ourselves in Kowloon at the Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Although the hotel staff was very nice, it was disappointing to wait four hours for our room to be ready. When we checked in before lunch, we were advised to go around as the rooms on our particular floor were still being prepared.
We opted to have lunch first in one of Richard’s favorite haunts, the Taiwan Chicken House, located about 300 meters away from the hotel. They serve wonderful food and have extraordinary roast goose. It is so good that for us a visit to Hong Kong will never be complete unless we have at least a couple of meals there. An even nicer thing about it is that we always see familiar faces because the servers and waitresses from five years ago are still the same ones up to now. After lunch we went around the area a bit more to make sure that our rooms would be ready by the time we got back to the hotel. Imagine our frustration when we had to wait a couple of hours more. The front desk clerk later explained that because of slow business during the SARS onslaught, they downsized their labor force and only a couple of cleaners were assigned to take care of one whole floor. Wow. Poor guys. Talk about intensive labor.
We were tired, yes, especially because we took the earliest flight out and waiting four hours for a room that was already booked way back in Manila still was not enough to dampen my spirits. More than anything, I was very happy to be back in a place that I so love. As soon as I freshened up, I stepped out to enjoy the city for what it is and was reminded once more of why I fell in love with it in the first place.
We got there on a Wednesday and left on a Sunday. All throughout our stay, we went around the malls. Although far from being a ghost town, the city’s lack of the usual throng of weekday shoppers gave one the impression that people were but starting to go back to their normal routine. It was a welcome reprieve though because shopping was comfortable – you didn’t have to wait in line to purchase your finds and your companions could go off in a distance and you’d still be able to see them from afar.
All that, however, changed when the weekend rolled by. Then it was as if the whole of Hong Kong went out to shop. I couldn’t see my companions from three meters away! There was literally a swarm of shoppers and mall-goers – all of whom were lapping up the sale. Yes, most stores were on sale. We stayed at the Marco Polo Hotel so we were naturally always at the Ocean Center, which is connected to it. Lane Crawford had a storewide sale and a large number of women converged there because the Jimmy Choos, Manolo Blahniks, and Sergio Rossis were slashed down to a juicy 30 to 50 percent. Talk about walking away with happy feet! Wonderful pieces from Vivienne Tam were likewise on sale but sadly for me, the sizes that were left were all too big (I’m a 0 but their smallest was a 2). Sigh! Some things are just not meant to be. I guess I’ll have to wait for a more opportune time.
Something you would inevitably notice immediately is the abundance of strategically located free-standing dispensing units of hand sanitizers – much like our very own Alcogel. The restrooms, too, are noticeably cleaner and well-stocked with tissue, soap, plus a matching cleaning lady on duty.
I guess we can all agree that it’s really the people that make the place. If you find yourself in Hong Kong, perhaps you could drop by Elegant Jewelry and Watch Company located at Deck 1, Shop 108 of Ocean Terminal. Look for Cindy Bernardez, a Filipina who works in the shop, who will give you the best price in town. If you’re looking for watches and beautiful jewelry, she is the woman to see.
I also chanced upon a charming grandpa-ish man, Samuel Lok, who mans the tailoring shop British Textile Company, located at the lobby of the Marco Polo Hotel. I simply inquired how much it would cost to have a shirt tailor-made for me and before I knew it, I had already agreed to have my measurements taken and come back the following day for my first fitting. I wanted a really tapered, crisp shirt with slim sleeves and he got every detail down pat. I was very happy with how it turned out, I ended up ordering two more. Richard also had some tuxedo shirts made and he was pleased with the fit as well. Best of all Uncle Sam, as we call him, is very pleasant and accommodating and he will not stop until you are completely satisfied. I just know I will be sure to see him again on my next visit.
By the way, I just found out that Birkenstocks (just like diamonds) are actually forever. My favorite pair, given to me by Richard almost six years ago, are practically split in half through sheer wear and tear. Being the sentimental basurera that I am, I could not bear to throw them away so I stashed the pair in a shoe bag in the basement. This proved to come in handy as I later found out while walking along Lock Road. We stepped into a shop, Maze Co., selling different kinds of comfortable footwear. I’ve long wanted to get thong-style Birks here but could not find my size. Luckily they had it and while talking to the woman assisting me I proudly mentioned that my last pair lasted me a good six years. Laughing, she told me that if I bring my broken pair they would fix it. No matter how distorted they are as long as they are genuine Birks, there is hope. Isn’t that great? Their service is so good that they actually go as far as resurrecting dead shoes. Cool. Their address is Shop G38A & G39A Hyatt Hotel G/F., 22 Lock Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. I don’t know about you but I’m sending mine over soon.
I have no doubt that Hong Kong is close to my heart because it consistently only takes a couple of hours after arriving there for me to already wish I would have an upcoming trip back. Can you imagine already planning to go back when you haven’t even left yet?
I will always love Hong Kong so alive. I love its skyline, food, shopping and the bargains. I love the way the people dress up and am ceaselessly amazed at how working women can run through traffic stops in their spiky heels. I love taking the ferry because there is an Old-World charm to it that you cannot shake off and even miles and miles of walking is pleasant when capped off with a refreshing bottle of sugar cane juice available at practically every sidewalk. There is a sidewalk shop along Nathan Road that serves heavenly vanilla bean cream puffs just a few steps away from Haagen Daaz. Mmmmm, I wish I took some home. They are crisp on the outside and you honestly bite into a yummy cream center that’s cool and sweet. As no place is perfect, I have learned through the years to take the bad with the good. After all, the most that I can complain about Hong Kong is that merchants are sometimes rude and shrewd. But hey, who knows, even that might change. Hope springs eternal.
But for now, it’s time to say hello again to Hong Kong. It’s back in the swing of things and that’s one more reason to smile.