NEW YORK — “1 per diem was born from the idea of departures, arrivals, and my personal journey,” enthuses bag designer Vanessa Espinosa.
And what a journey that has been.
Born and raised in Iloilo City, Vanessa went on to take up Marketing at UP Diliman. Right after graduation, she packed her bags for the US, dabbled in diplomacy, set her eye on fashion, and went on to start her own bag line, which has been enjoying rave reviews from New York magazine and Elle Girl Japan.
Not bad for a label launched barely four months ago.
Vanessa began 1 per diem with the idea of designing leather goods for the girl-on-go.
“The girl I design for is charmed by life. She rolls with the punches one day at a time, knows what she wants, and finds a way to get it whilst remaining balanced and grounded.”
She might as well be talking about herself.
We spoke to Vanessa recently about her sense of wanderlust and the wonders discovered along the way.
On the radar: What prompted you to pack your life in two suitcases and move to the US?
Vanessa Espinosa: When I was growing up, it never crossed my mind to ever move to the US. I was fascinated with the lifestyle but it was only after graduation that I realized I had to venture outside the comforts of “home.”
There was an urgency to learn to be independent. I had to practice taking the bus and doing my own laundry. So right after college, when my parents gave me a ticket to the US, I packed whatever I could fit in two suitcases.
I was certain I wasn’t going back for a while so I didn’t leave behind a single photograph of my friends and family. My parents had no clue that staying in the US permanently was my ulterior motive.
From a career in diplomacy in DC, you shifted to retail in New York City. Has fashion always been your first love?
I have a great appreciation for things that are well made and the work that goes into making something beautiful. Although retail is really not the creative part of the business, it’s my job to learn as much as I can about the collection and impart that knowledge to the client.
It is really interesting to learn where the designer draws inspiration from each season. Working at high-end retail has its perks — I work with the best people in the industry, meet really interesting clients and just being surrounded by amazing designs of Rei Kawakubo can be quite surreal.
What got you thinking about going back to school at FIT? What did you study there?
Although working in diplomacy was great, it wasn’t the right fit for me. After five years in DC, I instinctively knew that I wanted to work in the fashion industry. I remember telling myself while in transition from DC to New York, “I will do any work as long as it is fashion related.”
I took an intensive one-year course in Fashion Merchandising plus supplementary studio classes in Accessory Design.
How soon after did you start your bag line 1 per diem?
I’d been working on my accessories line in 2008 and launched 1 per diem in October 2010. Since then there have been favorable results from press and retailers.
You’ve worked at Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake. Was there always a preference for Japanese labels? How did they influence your design aesthetic?
I don’t really have a preference for Japanese labels. It’s just coincidence, I guess. Or maybe subconsciously, I’m drawn to their strong design aesthetic. I’ve always admired Japanese fashion, the integrity and quality that go into the design process.
Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons are both known for mastering their respective techniques in fabric manipulation, functionality and hand-craftsmanship.
Issey Miyake’s aesthetic is architectural and he uses bold colors, while Comme des Garçons is known for her avant garde designs.
Visually, my aesthetic is neither Miyake nor CDG. The importance of quality and integrity of the pieces is what influence me the most. When I design, I think of functionality and craftsmanship. Passing along the spirit of 1 per diem of doing things the old fashioned way, each bag is handcrafted in a small family-owned factory in the Chelsea district.
How would you describe your aesthetic and design process?
1 per diem is a pared-down mix of downtown, androgynous and not-so-polished luxury leather goods. My inspiration comes from experiences and what I see every day on the street, on the subway, the color of someone’s socks or the hairstyle of a client.
Once something catches my eye, I keep a mental note. I always carry a sketchpad, or I grab a Post-It. I have Post-Its everywhere on my sketchpad. I also get a lot of ideas when I do my sourcing at the leather store. I have a concept board in my workroom, which has cuttings of leather, clippings from magazines, color inspiration, notions, words/phrases and other things that inspire me. Making an entire collection involves a lot of hard work. I have to edit and restrain myself otherwise it gets costly. Once I have the design down, I sit with my sample maker, wait a few weeks for the prototype then go over with him for changes. If I like the outcome then it goes to production.
What made you decide to have your bags wholly made in New York?
By manufacturing in New York, I am able to oversee production closely. Therefore I can control the quality of the bags.
Refinery29 called your bags the “brand-new It Bag.” You’ve gotten so much press in so short a time. How does it feel like to be featured in Elle Girl Japan and New York magazine?
I had to pinch myself. I’m very fortunate with all the favorable press. Everything still feels surreal yet so fulfilling especially when I do most of the work myself including sourcing materials, overseeing production, press and sales. I’m a one-woman operation but I couldn’t have done it without the support of my closest friends in New York, my boyfriend who does all the web design and press kits work, and of course my family. I’m just a small town girl with a big dream. My goal is to grow slow and steady. This is just the beginning. I know I have a long way to go but I’m a big believer in following one’s dream so I know things will happen in time, coupled with a lot of hard work.
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For more on 1 per diem, go to http://www.1perdiem.com.