MANILA, Philippines - Who is the French born chef whose Left Bank Brasseries were named one of the eight wonders of Bay Area dining by the San Francisco Chronicle?
He was born in 1955 in France’s Rhone Alps. A classically trained French chef, he began his culinary career at the age of 15 in France’s gastronomic capital of Lyon. Traditionally trained by some of the most famous chefs in France, he began as an apprentice before working his way up to the position of assistant sous chef under chef Paul Lacombe.
At age 20, he spent four years in Chicago, and in 1981, became the opening chef at French Room at the Adolphus Hotel in Dallas. While at the French Room, he received national accolades and prepared dinners for celebrities and royalty, including Prince Charles and Bob Hope. Following his heart to San Francisco, he became chef at Chez Michel, and soon after opened La Folie with his wife Jamie in March 1988.
Although the restaurant’s inspiration is French, a look at the menu reveals nuances that are undeniably influenced by the surrounding region. Dishes such as tomatillo soup, lobster salad with a spicy mango vinaigrette and roast rabbit loin with a mixed grain timbale add a provocative flavor to the more classical cuisine.
La Folie has been among the critics’ top three French restaurants in San Francisco, and has had the honor of hosting such masters and personalities such as Jacques Pepin, Alain Ducasse, Roger Verger, Paul Bocuse, Julia Childs, Matt Dillon, Robert Redford, and Pierre Salinger.
In 1994, he teamed up with Edward N. Levine to develop and open Left Bank in Larkspur, followed by four others throughout the Bay Area. These 200 seat brasseries feature his version of French home-style cooking, which he calls cuisine grand-mere.
In 2009, the Left Bank group opened LB Steak, an elegant American steakhouse reflecting the distinctive charm of Santana Row’s surroundings and neighbors. Featuring USDA prime beef, they are known to have a diverse selection of 10 prime steaks and Sunday night prime rib dinners.
In style, he favors contemporary French cuisine, avoiding fusion, molecular gastronomy, and new devices or techniques such as sous vide. Avoiding fusion influences, his restaurants are conventional contemporary French in their cuisine, with classic French use of stock and sauces, but lighter than traditional French, with attention to local ingredients.
Inducted into the Maitres Cuisiners de France, he has won numerous awards including the James Beard award as Best Rising Star Chef in 1980.
Although he is extremely serious about food, his talent, personality, and booming laugh have made him a favorite with local TV producers and local culinary centers. His June 2001 awarding of the Chevalier Dans l’ordre du Merite Agricole is perhaps one of his greatest accomplishments, as this is an official French government recognition of his genuine contribution to his native country and value of his craft.
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