A black box of gourmet magic

When you were young, your mother must have encouraged you to eat your veggies, because they are good for you, never intending to mean that eating meat isn’t. Nevertheless, red meat has received its share of flak, often referred to as an indulgence to be eaten sparingly, if not eliminated from one’s diet. Today, with the success of healthy diet programs, such as the South Beach Diet, the message is clearer than ever. Lean red meat has actually an important place in a healthy diet. Health experts recommend a serving three to four times per week, since red meat is packed with nutrients, protein, iron, zinc, vitamin B12, and omega-3.

For over 40 years, the Meat and Livestock Australia (MLA) has been spreading the good word that Australian beef, veal, lamb and other sheep meat are good for one’s health and well-being. MLA is a producer-owned company responsible for red meat marketing, research, and development. It aims to build a demand and increase the presence of its produce on the international market. To promote meat that would make one "feel good," as their slogan says, it has organized the MLA Black Box Culinary Challenge. It has been successfully running this contest for almost 10 years across the Asia-Pacific region, and this year, the Philippines is fielding a representative to compete in the regional finals to be held late next year in Australia.

I was honored to be invited to the prestigious competition held at the Makati Shangri-La last April 12. Its lineup of participants reads like a list of the best in the country’s hospitality and food service industry: Lolo Dad’s Cafe, Mandarin Oriental Manila, The Peninsula Manila, Le Soufflé Restaurant, Dusit Hotel Nikko, Pepato Cibo di M, The Palms Country Club, Team Quisine, and the Center for Culinary Arts Manila. Big names in the field mean serious competition. All nine teams were composed of a team/chef manager and three young chefs, with each no older than 32 years old. They were presented with a black box containing mysterious ingredients, including prime Australian produce, plus seafood and dairy products, as well as sauces, vegetables, and fruits. From this, they were asked to devise a three-course menu consisting of a cold appetizer, a hot main course, and dessert.

The challenge? The black box is actually presented to them just the day before the showdown and, what’s more, they are given just an hour to compose and submit the menu. The time constraint is what actually sets this competition apart from the rest. Just imagine the pressure of conjuring a fine feast for 20 without knowing the ingredients at your disposal until the day before the event. The teams were also responsible for the table decoration, plates, cutlery, and other equipment to make this the ultimate dining experience – from preparation to the actual serving. They would have to field their own waiting staff, one of whom should specialize in wine service, and they are responsible for cleaning up their working area during and after the competition.

The following evening, the teams returned in full regalia, each group distinctively different from the other. I was seated at the media table in the warm company of friends, looking forward to a feast meant for royalty! Preparing a gourmet dinner in full sight of discriminating diners while being judged is challenge enough for any member of the participating teams. The pressure was further compounded by the fact that they were under scrutiny for every aspect of preparation of service. Hygiene, practice, tidy working methods, how they carry themselves, personal appearance were all taken into consideration. Under my breath, I am thankful I was just a guest and not a competitor. The smell of the entrees as they wafted to our table was a heavenly whiff to our gustatory senses, but I, too, could sniff out the scent of tension in the air, masked under the cool and calm exterior of the competitors.

Table decoration and presentation were also part of the competition. The centerpiece display, professional table setup and overall presentation must not overpower the meal or hinder guests’ conversation. Rather, they should heighten the experience. I personally liked how Pepato has arranged its table. It was very creative. It distinctly bore the mark of Margarita Fores, as I know her. She incidentally is Pepato’s team manager.

And when the food arrived, the conversation became animated. This time, there was no talk about politics, the weather, showbiz trivia, or inside gossip. The dishes really stole the thunder at that moment. We couldn’t help but rave and delight over the originality and the unique taste of each creation. It is with pride that I say that we Filipinos displayed culinary prowess at par with the rest of the gourmet world.

I was particularly impressed with Lolo Dad’s entrees. With award-winning and, if I should say, perfectionist-to-a-fault chef Ariel Manuel at the helm, it was not surprising that every gourmet outing of theirs topped the previous one.

Pepato’s ingenious entree of balsamico adobo of lamb shoulder with tris capsicum for me was the best for it really melted in the mouth. What really caught my attention was Pepato’s dessert of millefoglie with cream cheese spuma and a warm compote of candied tomatoes, mangoes, and Baguio strawberries. It scored points with me.

All teams should have been adjudged winners: The presentation, service, creativity and taste, the whole experience – to call it wonderful would be an understatement. But as they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The judges decided and they won: Lolo Dad’s.

To sum it up, that night was a recognition of the talent, artistry and commitment of our local chefs, because their struggle to conjure their winning entries was nothing compared to what they go through everyday in the workplace, struggling to get the perfect taste, paying attention to every minute detail, obsessing over the right ingredient, handling the tension of last- minute changes and customer demands as they open their doors each and every day. And for sure, with the passion they put in that night, it was going to be a delightfully delicious performance to outshine the last one!