MANILA, Philippines - Perfume has been an integral part of Hermès’ history since the 1930s, and has evolved in unison with other in-house crafts.
The adventure began in 1951, with Eau d’Hermès composed by the legendary Edmond Roudnitska. The arrival 10 years later of Calèche, the first women’s perfume from Hermès, confirmed this commitment to the perfumer’s art. Since then there has been a succession of creations from the great names of perfumery, each making unique contributions.
In 2004, Jean-Claude Ellena joined the house to become its exclusive perfumer and create all its fragrances. Here, an interview on how he created Voyage d’Hermès, the house’s new “woody fresh musk” fragrance:
How do you work on a perfume’s presence and intensity?
When I was creating Voyage d’Hermès perfume, I moved away from the principle of the formula’s concentration and turned instead to the intensity of perceptions and the extent of its sillage. That’s a more unusual olfactory premise because, above and beyond those loyal to the eau de toilette who will see it as a real alternative, this perfume is intended for other categories of wearer who will be seduced by this very different expression of the fragrance, a phenomenon we have already noticed with Terre d’Hermès and Terre d’Hermès perfume.
Which aspect of the original Voyage d’Hermès eau de toilette fragrance did you hold onto when you were composing the perfume?
I wanted to maintain the contrast between the invigorating spicy freshness of the top notes and the reassuring gentleness afforded by the eau de toilette’s heart and its sillage. Because the idea was to amplify, fill out and deepen the volume of the original fragrance, I reduced the citrus aspect of the top notes to get to the quick of the subject more instantly. This time the contrast comes from direct contact between fresh spices (cardamom and juniper) and warm woods, while amber — which is there in light touches — plays its part as a binder and enhancer while also adding body to the composition.
What new olfactory perceptions were you looking for?
Even more reassuring, cozy, warm effects … a more marked and long-lasting presence, an “expanding rounded feel” as distinct from the drawn-out, taut aspect of the eau de toilette, as if achieving a new olfactory dimension. If you transposed it into the world of textiles, the perfume would be like cashmere or wool, while the eau de toilette would suggest fabrics such as linen or cotton.
How would you express Voyage d’Hermès perfume in terms of images or evocations?
Like the Moebius illustration, Voyage d’Hermès eau de toilette explores an imaginary landscape in soft watercolors and in which space is seen through a juxtaposition of delicate nuances and a multitude of detail in the foreground.
Voyage d’Hermès perfume is an evocation with far more contrasts, drawn in very bright colors and offering a different point of view. It is the same landscape, but the relief is more dense, more marked. To draw a parallel with photography, you could talk in terms of a new depth of field.
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In the Philippines, the Hermès boutique is located in Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center, Makati.