MANILA, Philippines - When he launched his own label in the ‘60s, Yves Saint Laurent changed the face of fashion by dressing women in mannish pantsuits with boxy shoulders, smoking jackets, and tuxedos.
Helmut Newton’s iconic Le Smoking images of a model with slicked-back hair, cigarette casually clutched in hand, as well as women’s changing roles, helped propel this androgynous statement into a women’s wear classic and very much a wardrobe staple.
When we last saw the tuxedo as a full force trend in 2008, it was a powerful, sexy statement with skinny cuts, tight fits, and plenty of high-sheen satin. Since then, men’s tailoring has relaxed, and so has women’s.
With Le Smoking once again rocking the runways with Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Sonia Rykiel and Moschino taking the lead, the women’s tuxedo is once again about that effortless androgyny. It’s all about immaculately-tailored yet lightly-relaxed pieces, minimalist silhouettes, and that all-important hint of ’70s glamour — wide, peaked lapels, sparkle, and luxurious velvet.
And SM designers are taking on the trend in their latest collections, showing the great new ways women can wear the tux. Avel Bacudio and Arnold Galang channel the ’70s in wide-legged jumpsuits and peaked lapels. Efren Ocampo feminizes androgyny by mixing a ruffled blouse with tailored pants. Mike de la Rosa creates a perfectly polished look with a cropped jacket and a wide-legged jumpsuit. Ricci Lizaso takes the great white way. And Cesar Gaupo creates a resort version of tuxedo dressing.
Photographed at the InterContinental Manila, the Tuxedo collection is available at selected SM Department Stores.