MANILA, Philippines - Floating clouds of colorful fur, elusive transparency, masculine accents, glimpses of patent leather for a lady of mystery and irony. The stylish provocation of a daring color palette; eyes hidden by a wide-brimmed hat with feathers, recalling an eccentric muse — for the autumn/winter 2011-2012 season, the Gucci woman dresses with a cinematic allure and a strong, seductive power, like a performance by Florence Welch from Florence and the Machine, as intriguing as archive images of Anjelica Huston photographed by Bob Richardson, like film noir in color.
“This is a contemporary female dandy who fuses glamour and seduction using the iconic codes of the house,” says Gucci creative director Frida Giannini. “She is a polished woman with a decisive personality, who is attentive to detail and willing to dare.
Sartorially Seventies
The collection boasts sartorial details and dramatized Seventies proportions, influenced by a vision of the Forties. The line drops down to the knee and flares. Stoles emphasize shoulders, tight on small masculine jackets with striking lapels and on coats with military detailing and a cinched waist. Subtle feminine belts are accentuated with leather trim. Flowing, ethereal dresses give way to see-through effects and tie at the neck with long scarves. The masculine side returns with extra-wide pants, in lightweight nabuk or in exclusive British mélange fabrics. The pant-skirt becomes a signature, paired with a caban and over-the-knee boots. Worn with black and white graphic prints, polka dots, geometric prints, light pied de poule for an incognito getaway.
With the concept of skin on skin, the chemisier and strapless dress are of nappa, in whimsical colors. Teal, rust, emerald green, cherry, lilac, lime are highlighted by the artisanal fur treatments on a wild deluxe caban, collars, sleeves, and basques. Hand-painted python is used for biker jackets; shearling for hippy-style coats, and an artisanal fusing technique that unites fox, mink, and goat hair loomed into one piece. Silk and tweed are electrified by unexpected details in patent with a Helmut Newton fetish flavor.
For evening, chiffon and organza dresses blow across the skin in columns of sensuality. Silk culottes underneath a transparent veil have an airy, elusive eroticism complemented by abstract and opulent floral sculptures realized with organza petals, chiffon, and habotai. Hand-painted flowers are one-of-a-kind for a secret garden.
Return To Structure
The masterful craftsmanship that has always been Gucci’s signature marks a striking return to more structured bags in a spectrum of exotic skins: crocodile, lizard, and ostrich in the season’s color palette. The Bardot, first created in 1975, is reborn with a spur closure and a semi-oval shape. The Jackie is newly proposed with a long detachable shoulder strap.
Footwear includes knee-high boots in black patent leather and Mary Janes with contrast piping, with a python strap for evening. Giannini has a geometric take on eyewear, featuring block-shaded oversized sunglasses with square lines. Maxi studs are placed on bangles signifying the evolution of the horse-bit. Jewelry has a dangerous beauty: a cartridge-effect bracelet, onyx earrings and a ring with a pointed prism.
In the Philippines, Gucci is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc. (SSI) and is located at Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center and Rustan’s Tower, Shangri-La Plaza Mall.