It’s all about juxtaposing unexpected combinations of color, shape, design and style. "The secret, the designers tell us, is to mix everything up," wrote Kristy Munro in January/February 2002 Australian Harper’s Bazaar. "Because this new wardrobe deconstruction, championed by Jean Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld, advocates a dangerous game of mix-and-match, it is so easy to get it wrong. If I pair my wide-leg trousers with a full tunic, I am asked if I’m expecting, yet that same tunic top with liquorice whip spandex pants makes me feel like a groovy Jane Birkin," Munro added.
Always remember: Opposites work. For instance, the mix of masculine and feminine silhouettes makes the look so now. A girlie ruffled skirt looks hip with a sharply tailored jacket. A sheer and soft peasant dress works with a leather tool belt. A long draped lace and chiffon dress is modernized with leather boots.
"Choose what to emphasize — top half or bottom — and dress accordingly. The more cautious can play the game with accessories – a demure suit with strappy bondage heels and a whip-stitched leather cuff or sharp trousers with the pretty beaded slippers and a delicate charm bracelet," wrote Munro.
Layered looks dominated the runways of Yohji Yamamoto, Veronique Branquinho, Chanel, Christian Dior, Marni and Dries Van Noten, to name a few. A series of these also appeared at John Galliano – skirts over pants, vests over shirts and pattern mixes from stripes to prints. Layers and layers of tattered feather-light fabrics in dusty colors accented with corset belts worn with cutaway jackets ruled Hussein Chalayan’s runway. Then Martine Sitbon sent out feminine pieces with men’s tailored suits – a fine line between feminine and masculine. A ribbed, light sweater worn under a vest and pinstripe slacks and a waiter’s jacket thrown over a sexy camisole defined this look. Helmut Lang layered sheer tops, bottoms and skirts in silk chiffon or cotton knits over bodysuits, knockers and over one another, creating a textured yet flowing look. Faded printed cotton tunics or embroidered skirts layered over A.P.C. jeans worn with handmade macramé slippers wrap dresses with attached pleating details to the waists were various versions at Jessica Ogden. Imagine mixing a vintage, gold brocade skirt with a pajama print top and a gray cardigan. This was Prada’s look. Talk about the eccentric combination of glamour and shabbiness that works!
Again, this brings us back to the game we loved most as children – playing "dress up." Now, there’s more excitement to fashion. It brings out our own individual styles. Gone are the days when everything, from head-to-toe, must match. Fun is back. We have forgotten this in the rush of our lives. Life is so fast-paced that it is easier to grab a coordinated suit. This new way to dress takes a little more time in the morning, but it surely beats the fun of it!
• Corsets are still in. They turned up everywhere – from Alexander McQueen to Valentino, Chloé, Hussein Chalayan, and Vivienne Westwood, to name a few.
• Red is still hot. Giorgio Armani, Versace, Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, Bruce, Valentino, Blumarine, Alexander McQueen and Dries Van Noten used red to brighten their collections.
• The denim is still hot, hot, hot! Junya Watanabe presented the freshest look for this old blue fabric. Innovative and cutting-edge yet feminine designs will make any fashionista want all! Denim also appeared at Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Matthew Williamson, Luella Bartley and John Galliano.
• Strike the look with stripes and dots. Bernhard Willhelm, Sonia Rykiel, Cacharel, Nicole Miller, Marni, Genny, Issey Miyake, Pucci, Christian Dior, Veronique Branquinho and Vivienne Westwood used these prints.
• Flower power still blooms! From bold to dainty – printed, embroidered, beaded or cutout! Last summer’s print of choice is still hip. Céline, Ungaro, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Cacharel, Mui Mui, Valentino, Blumarine, Nicole Milller and Roberto Cavalli loved these blooms.
• Black and white — they’re together forever! This pair of none-colors was seen at Chanel, Olivier Theyskens, Imitation of Christ, Antonio Berardi, Comme des Garcons, Emporio Armani, Bruce, Vivienne Westwood and Yohji Yamamoto.
• Racy lace — last season’s romantic look is carried over spring. Naughty, see-through, sexy and ultra feminine lace designs at Céline, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Chloé, Matthew Williamson, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant, Marni, Clements and Ribeiro, Antonio Berardi, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Diane Von Furstenberg, Anna Molinari, Antonio Berardi, Mui Mui, Vivienne Westwood and Versace are perfect for the coming season.
• Go, go gold! Go, go silver! Gianfranco Ferré wrapped his girls with silver and gold embroideries with Oriental themes. Even jacquard jeans were embroidered in silver. Lavishly appliquéd gold lamé coats and suits with silver trim appeared at Louis Vuitton. Chloé featured lacy pieces edged in gold. Martine Sitbon, Michael Kors and Roberto Cavalli also created pieces in this color palette. The best collection in gold and silver though was Prada. Miuccia Prada took the Fifties’ golden brocades and silvery paisleys and modernized these designs.
• Go for brown in all shades — bronze, espresso, mocha, taupe, chocolate, tan and oatmeal at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Jil Sander, Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten, Max Mara, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Mui Mui, Fendi, Prada, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Sportmax, Céline and Gucci.
• Hotpants are still begging to make a comeback this summer… if you dare. Choose from Mui Mui to Gucci, Versus, Sportmax, Alberta Ferretti and Anna Molinari
• Extra-large! Baggy, wide-leg and slouchy pants are all the rage at Gucci, D&G, Christian Dior, Yohji Yamamoto, Balenciaga, Martine Sitbon, Comme des Garcons, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester. Think hip-hop! Remember these drooping pants are not for everybody. They look best on tall and thin women.
• Tiered — layers of Latin-flavored ruffles and details accented some pieces at Philosphy di Alberta Ferretti, Catherine Malandrino, Anna Molinari, Versus, Antonio Marras and Betsey Johnson.
• Summer prints — from animal — leopard, bird, snake and tiger – to abstract go wild. Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Missoni, Pucci and Christian Dior.
• Patchwork of fabrics is the new cool. Patchwork designs composed of Indian fabrics, paisleys, strips of metallic piping, panels of sheer chiffon, fabrics with other prints and patterns, padded and quilted showed up at Louis Vuitton, Jessica Ogden, Balenciaga, Jill Stuart and Miguel Adrover.
• Laser cutouts and peek-a-boos at Chloe, Valentino, Versace, Pascal Humbert, Viktor&Rolf and Gucci, another style du jour for the hot summer.
• Colors from mustard to pumpkin, mauve and moss on their own or mixed together. Does it remind you of the couch covers in the Seventies? Celine, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton played with these colors. Spices are hot from saffron to cinnamon, pepper and curry at Romeo Gigli to Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier.