In a galaxy of fashion where supernovas brighten up the sky with their daring designs and dramatic runway shows, there are stars that shine with a steady and enduring light. Such a designer is Giorgio Armani, whose name may not be as recognizable to Gen Z fashionistas. But for those of us in my generation, who forayed into fashion around the same time that Armani was becoming famous, he is forever our fashion superstar.
“I was the first to soften the image of men, and harden the image of women. I dressed men in women’s fabrics, and stole from me what women wanted and needed — the power suit,” Armani has said, and that says it best.
That masculine look, achieved through impeccable tailoring, was brought to the fore in American Gigolo, a 1980 film that made both Armani and actor Richard Gere famous.
His signature look is luxurious yet also relaxed, and his androgynous approach to women’s wear is amazingly flattering. I have bought Armani shirts with closed neck, with long sleeves and padded shoulders, yet they dropped over the body in a way that was more sensuous than tight fitting, revealing dresses.
Armani started off in 1957, working as a buyer for the department store Rinascente. After seven years, he trained in the atelier of Nino Cerruti (1930–2022), an Italian textile magnate and designer who revolutionized men’s fashion by deconstructing the jacket and making tailoring more relaxed.
In 1975 Armani launched his own label of men and women’s ready-to-wear with business partner Sergio Galeotti. He consistently dresses movie stars and celebrities, and has created different lines to appeal to his clientele of different ages and means.
Armani A/X is the most appealing for young people because it’s not only more affordable, it’s easy to wear. Oversized pieces are consistently the choice of Gen Z while their parents prefer a more fitted silhouette that is also available. The distinction between men and women’s wear blurs at A/X as clients can choose pieces from either section.
Trendy is not a term you would use to describe Armani yet his timeless pieces are also subtly updated to look contemporary. At age 90, he is still fit and active, reporting to the office every day and keeping up with the move to sustainable fashion. Pieces in the store marked “sustainable” are made with recycled or organic materials and use less energy and chemicals to produce. He is health-conscious, and marketing managers note that during meetings in Milan he will serve food that has less salt and no onions and garlic!
The iconic pieces that you will find in every collection include “Armani Blue,” which is his personal favorite color, navy blue. You will find this not just in clothes but in caps and other accessories. But for fall and winter 2024, the three themes to note are Neutrals, Denim and Black.
Neutral tones for Armani are not necessarily the colors that come to mind. Instead, a light pink (a pale celadon he calls “shaker”), oatmeal and other soft colors are used to make denim jackets and wide jeans, culottes, sweat shirts, T-shirts and a number of pretty dresses that are knee-length and can be lightly shirred or pleated.
The Black collection has the instant holiday appeal associated with the color, is easy to mix and match, and transitions readily from casual occasions to office to evening. A simple sleeveless, buttoned-down dress illustrates the kind of feminine tailoring that will bring you to any event in style. It is reasonably priced for such impeccable craftsmanship.
Then, of course, you have the Denim collection of updated staples. There is the Boyfriend fit, the Super Skinny (very popular with older clients), the Carrot and Lift Up Skinny Jeans. This last one is designed to give your behind a flattering lift.
To complete the look, there are bags, belts and footwear. The fall/winter 2024 A/X collection is available at their stores located at Ayala Town Center, Shangri-La Plaza and Glorietta 3