A drive down Juana Osmeña Street evokes rich memories for Cebuanos growing up in the 60s and 70s. The address is well-known. The Escaño House on 94 Juana Osmeña St. was where you could always spot friends chatting or singing on the marble front steps until dawn. On lazy afternoons you could walk in on a passionate game of bridge or grab a pelota racket and play against wannabes of all ages in Nikes, rubber slippers, or bare feet.
Parties at the Escaños’ were memorable events. One out of three Cebuanos in their 40s to 60s will recall a significant, usually romantic event while dancing in the darkened living room, to the live band music of the Viscounts or the Strums, the bolder of the lot getting lost under the kalachuchi trees, or frolicking on the swing where squeaking chains signaled the unsuspecting meanderer to keep away.
Designed in the 1950s by Viannese architect, Ernest Korneld, the Escaño house was built for fun and entertainment. A wrap-around patio became the site of rehearsals for stage plays scanning generations – “The Loves of Leonor Rivera” (starring Mario Ortiz, and Delia Villacastin), “Blithe Spirit” (starring Nic Dean and Moya Jackson), “The Cat and the Canary” (Cookie Escaño, Joe Pritchard, Antolin Alonte in a cameo role), “Rashamon” (Claude Evangelio), “Fillip” (Benjie Diola, Jing Ramos, Mayen Angbetic Tan, Tina Ferreros, Beebop Gonzales) and, “Juan Pusong” (the first Cebuano rock zarzuela with Benjie Diola, Mayen Angbetic Tan and Jimmy Escaño). The musical numbers presented during the reunions of the large Escaño clan were rehearsed in this house, with singing often drowned out by the chorus of crickets inhabiting the caimito and mahogany trees.
But what made this house a comfortable place for friends and relatives was the spirit of ohana holo’oko’a – a Hawaiian tradition of extended family that translated into a warm unconditional welcome for anyone who wished to be part of the family. And with ohana holo’oko’a, the Escaño house constantly bustled with friends of Jess and Gloria Escaño’s seven children spanning a 12-year age range. It was not rare to find a friend or two sleeping over after a late night party, or stranded by the curfew imposed during the martial law period. And as tradition dictated, the family was ready to add an extra plate, and throw more water into the soup to welcome the additional family member.
Gloria herself was the driving spirit in the excitement within the Escaño house as she taught Bridge to anyone who was willing to learn, encouraged “clean fun” games like Password and Charades, and offered the use of the house and the famous patio for jam sessions, reunions, meetings, and party venue for the many organizations she was actively involved in.
Today, the tradition of ohana holo’oko’a continues to echo in the walls of Casa Escaño, now a bed-and breakfast with 11 cozy rooms and restaurant that serves family recipes reminiscent of the extra plate service the Escaños were ready to offer to any guest.
Don Merto’s Restaurant
Food at Don Merto’s restaurant has been inspired by Doña Mena and Gloria Escaño’s cuisine. Today, at Casa Escaño we take the influences of both women to create a cuisine that we like to call “food for the soul.”
We feature the recipes Doña Mena would prepare on Sunday lunches in her Ramos home and special holiday food prepared to warm the hearts of her family. Her specialties like homemade pancit, with noodles rolled by hand; Timke, a cull chicken soup traditionally served during Noche Buena; and most especially her canalones, hand rolled chicken and pasta with béchamel.
Alongside our featured “Lola’s Favorites,” we also offer the quality steaks that Don Merto’s Delicatessen and Restaurant has been offering in Banilad for the past three years. Taking a deeper look into the menu, one can also find dishes influenced by a younger generation of foodies; to a palate that is more accustomed to cleaner, lighter flavors with emphasis on artistic presentation to complete the dining experience.
The eclectic mix of dishes comes from the history of this house. Gloria Escaño, being well-traveled and raised in Hawaii, a melting pot state, was always open to the cuisine of various cultures. Within the menu, you will find dishes with hints of Chinese, Japanese, Italian, Spanish, American and most specially Filipino flavors.
Don Merto’s restaurant can certainly please the palates of wide range of diners.
Casa Escaño formally opened last November 17 with a grand reunion of those who have fond memories within its walls.