In January, when the first twitchings in Gucci’s fall collection were first reported, I found the presence of fur-collared overcoats, riding boots and brocade too dandyish and outré. According to the New York Times, Frida Giannini’s point of reference was “Leonardo DiCaprio as Arthur Rimbaud in love/hate with Paul Verlaine in Agnieszka Holland’s 1995 film Total Eclipse.” After reframing an observation by Vogue writer Sarah Mower (“A phenomenon of this decade is the way some of the most unexpected ideas have been moving at high speed from ‘weird’ to ‘normal’ within months”), I finally got it: dressing like a tortured teenage poet, whom Victor Hugo described in the late 1800s as “an infant Shakespeare,” is about context and timing.
Based on the catwalk presentations at other key Italian labels, gentlemen this season will definitely face the hardship of being simultaneously brooding and stylish. From the crisp white cravats on Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody, Garrett Hedlund, and Jamie Bell at Prada to the foppishly bow-tied finale at Dolce & Gabbana, it appears that “many designers have swapped pastel-hued chinos, button-down shirts and golf club blazers for something darker and richer, with more bohemian swagger,” writes David Hayes in the Financial Times. I guess it’s time to shift the eye.
Mood, not costume
While heritage, preppy, and workwear continue to be the bywords in men’s style, and will no doubt still hold sway over certain corners in the years to come, wingtips, varsity jackets, and chambray shirts are starting to look tired. Following the driving spirit of contrarianism, tastes need to change gears as other things become the norm. Of course, as these alternative sartorial directions emerge, the best approach is a slow one.
The key to transitioning from prepster to poet lies in adding small Byronic flourishes. You are going for mood, after all, not crafting a costume. Personally I’ve begun to reassess my wardrobe little by little, ditching cheerful J.Crew pinstripes for moody Etro paisley. Admittedly it is quite difficult, if not impossible, to give up faded denim cold turkey, but there are ways to refresh tired staples. Monogrammed slippers, such as those by Rajo! for Milanos, designer Rajo Laurel’s line for SM Department Store, are great updates as are jackets and trousers in velvet. It’s all too easy to veer into Chuck Bass territory with this, so make sure to tone down the aristo bohemian vibe with some grungy elements. Lest we forget, Kurt Cobain was a restless artist, too.
Russian invasion
With the release of Joe Wright’s bold adaptation of Anna Karenina, the world once again turns its gaze to Leo Tolstoy’s aristo-adulteress. Those inspired by Jacqueline Durran’s costumes for Keira Knightley, Aaron Johnson (Count Vronsky), and Jude Law (Alexei Karenin) need only to troop to Banana Republic, which will soon launch a capsule collection filled with imperial touches.
From the 19th century to the present, it appears that five Muscovites are on their way to becoming the new stars of global street style. Known to photographers and bloggers as the Russian Fashion Pack, Vika Gazinskaya, Miroslava Duma, Elena Perminova, Anya Ziourova, and Ulyana Sergeenko “have arrived on the fashion scene with the flourish of Rudolf Nureyev,” notes the New York Times. Their collective style is neither too bright nor too preppy, which ties in perfectly with the darker mood of the moment.
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